<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3354" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks for your replies. I explained to my client that eventually the dampers need to be removed so the back action can be taken out and proper repairs be done. He is currently spending a lot of money to have me fix many problems done by the rebuilder. One major problem is none of the beckets were seated into the becket hole and many have slipped out and are now breaking loose and almost zero tuning stability so the damper system has to wait for these other problems are resolved. Wim and Ed, I agree that the only way to approach this is complete component repair. Thanks for the advice on screwing them onto the rail as I wasn't sure if this update to the flange would be a problem for future service access. Albert, I like the sponge idea! I was trying to use a chunk of felt but it kept moving whenever I inserted the flange. If I used rail punchings there is no way I would be able to remove them once things are in place. Jon, I believe this piano was in your shop before it was sold and rebuilt, (Hyannis in Cape Cod...right?). email me privately if I'm right. <A href="mailto:chadwick61@cox.net">chadwick61@cox.net</A></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks for everyone's advice</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>David Chadwick</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Las Vegas</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"> </DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><WBR>Unfortunately, the only way to properly reglue those flanges is to remove the back action. If more break loose, you might want to consider screwing them all in place. <BR><BR> <DIV style="CLEAR: both">Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT<BR></DIV> <DIV style="CLEAR: both"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000000>You can glue this in place with a thin screw driver blade or other thin slat of wood</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000000>by wedging it between the upstop rail and the flange and some sort of prop on</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000000>the key bed.<FONT face="Times New Roman">Regards,<BR><BR>Jon Page</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>    You will eventually need to glue up a lot of these flanges, so you may as <BR>well do it right, ie, take the tray out and repair it. Anything else is just <BR>dragging out the misery. Modern glue will, for all practical reasons, make a <BR>permanent repair on these rails.  The tray is a very soft wood, so take care <BR>not to starve the joints. <BR>        You main job will be educating the customer.  If they have a really <BR>bad rebuilding job, they will need to understand that the expense has not <BR>ended.   <BR>Regards, <BR>Ed Foote RPT</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>insert a piece of sponge cut a little<BR>thicker than the gap above the flange and wide enough to<BR>cover about four flanges. </DIV> <DIV>Albert Lord.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Use paper front rail punchings to wedge the flange in place and pull out after the glue has set ( 15 minutes )</FONT></DIV> <DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>