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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Dale~</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>(For some reason I got this same reply from both you and
Jon Page, (except Jon's was full of question marks) --not sure what's
happening. So I will respond to you both. Although it really looks like you are
the one who originally sent the message. (The Genuine Article.)) What do you
think Jon is up to?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial><FONT
color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN
class=507200520-09072008>Dale</SPAN>~</FONT></FONT></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Thanks for the excellent info. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>One funny thing someone wrote that I read recently was:
when you expect to be able to mike the pins and find different sizes for bass to
treble, the Diamond pins, because of their consistency, will not provide
you this variety! (ha ha!)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>But honestly, who among us wants to have to mike every
pin? </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>On the other hand, we shouldn't always just assume that we
are getting what we are told. We do need to check up on parts quality, at least
from time to time. I do mike samples from the sets of pins I use. If they seem
consistent, I don't mike them all. If they seem inconsistent, or if I
find in the process of stringing that some seem looser than others, or
feel funny, I usually find myself miking a lot more of them before I put them
in. The fact that Denros seem to run .002" smaller than specified is also
something I have observed. Sometimes it works out fine, other times I wish
the pin were what they say it is. Time is money, and we do depend a lot on
our parts suppliers to provide uniform, acceptable parts that we don't have to
mess around with.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>When you say shop-made 1/4-sawn blocks, does that mean you
make them up from scratch? Glue them up and all? That's admirable. (But a lot of
work, isn't it? Wouldn't it just be easier to go with a Bolduc block? Or have
you found some inconsistencies, like with tuning pins? ;-). You must
have some very accurate woodworking machines: planers, table saws, and a nice
clamping press. What kind of glue would you use, that wouldn't cause the oxide
rings on the tuning pin threads?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>I haven't tried making my own pinblocks, or tuning pins
yet; although I know it's possible.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>When I had to work on some of the Weiler pianos
from St. Petersburg that were coming in during the 1990s,
I discovered a lot of the pins would break on some pianos. The pins did not
look very consistent in quality, and I ultimately found out from the rep that
they made the tuning pins up themselves at the piano factory from the spools of
thick "tuning pin wire", and hand swaged them, etc. Some of the pianos had to
have all the pins removed and new Denro or higher quality pins installed, under
warranty, because of the tuning pin breakage issue.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>~Kendall Ross Bean</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=009060519-09072008>
<DIV align=left>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007>PianoFinders</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007><A
title=http://www.pianofinders.com/
href="http://www.pianofinders.com/">www.pianofinders.com</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007>e-mail: <A
title=mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com
href="mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com">kenbean@pianofinders.com</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007><EM>Connecting Pianos and
People</EM></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007><EM></EM></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=533361603-16112007><EM><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>We
conclude<SPAN class=009060519-09072008>d</SPAN> that it works <SPAN
class=009060519-09072008>better</SPAN> on paper <SPAN
class=009060519-09072008>than it does</SPAN> on wood." </FONT></EM>
<DIV><SPAN class=533361603-16112007><SPAN class=606125201-09072008><FONT
face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><EM> -</EM> A
company that had just built a prototype of a new woodworking tool from the
inventor's
plans.</FONT></FONT></FONT></SPAN></SPAN></DIV></SPAN></DIV></DIV></SPAN></DIV></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=507200520-09072008>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000000>? Hi Kendall<BR>? Our pin of choice are
Blued, Diamond brand pins. On occasions we use the Japanese pins.? The
difference for us is that the Diamond Blued pins clearly have a cut thread that
is not blued over & they are far more consistent in true size.? The Nippon
Denro typically run on average .002 smaller than the stated size, which can be a
good thing when repinning an original block that doens't need a true sized pin.?
They also make a 3 1/2 size pin.? Nifty aye?<BR>? The diamond nickel /chrome
plated pins appear to have had the threads cut & then plated?over which I
dislike & don't trust this though I ahve used them at one time.<BR>? For my
Shop made 1/4 cut maple blocks I've had the best uniform fit from the Diamond
made pins.<BR>? For years Trix miked all the pins in a set & put the largest
in the bass & smallest in the trebles. Finding something truly round is
about as consistent as finding something truly straight.? Just try running a
micrometer on a few sets and on differing points on the pin & you'll see.
It's a good thing wood is pliable & forgiving.<BR>?? My friends once had a
set of the Diamond that was oblong/out of round?but to my knowledge this was the
only one we've ever heard of. This anomaly occurred during the time when we
mic'd every pin... every set.? ughh.? SO diamonds are? more expensive but not
when you consider we don't mic pins very often anymore?& they are as
reliable as any we've tried<BR>??<BR><BR>?regards</FONT></DIV><X-SIGSEP><PRE>--
</PRE></X-SIGSEP>
<DIV><BR>Regards,<BR><BR>Jon Page</DIV></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> erwinspiano@aol.com
[mailto:erwinspiano@aol.com] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 09, 2008 6:45
AM<BR><B>To:</B> pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Nature of tuning
pins<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<FONT face="Comic Sans MS, sans-serif" size=3>For what it's worth I like the
look of shiny Nickel pins better and they matche more things shiny on the
pianos these days ... If diamond would cut the thread after plating, I'd use
them. Originality has nothing whatsoeverto do with my thought process.....but
that's jsut
me.<BR>
Dale</FONT><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 3px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
face="Comic Sans MS, sans-serif"> Hi Kendall<BR> Our pin of choice
are Blued, Diamond brand pins. On occasions we use the Japanese pins.
The difference for us is that the Diamond Blued pins clearly have a cut thread
that is not blued over & they are far more consistent in true size.
The Nippon Denro typically run on average .002 smaller than the stated size,
which can be a good thing when repinning an original block that doens't need a
true sized pin. They also make a 3 1/2 size pin. Nifty
aye?<BR> The diamond nickel /chrome plated pins appear to have had the
threads cut & then plated over which I dislike & don't trust this
though I ahve used them at one time.<BR> For my Shop made 1/4 cut maple
blocks I've had the best uniform fit from the Diamond made pins.<BR> For
years Trix miked all the pins in a set & put the largest in the bass &
smallest in the trebles. Finding something truly round is about as consistent
as finding something truly straight. Just try running a micrometer on a
few sets and on differing points on the pin & you'll see. It's a good
thing wood is pliable & forgiving.<BR> My friends once had a
set of the Diamond that was oblong/out of round but to my knowledge this
was the only one we've ever heard of. This anomaly occurred during the time
when we mic'd every pin... every set. ughh. SO diamonds are
more expensive but not when you consider we don't mic pins very often
anymore & they are as reliable as any we've
tried<BR> <BR><BR> regards<BR>Dale
Erwin</FONT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV id=AOLMsgPart_2_0ee0cece-0978-4fd9-a432-c7158545f95e><WBR><FONT
face="Comic Sans MS, sans-serif"> Hi Kendall<BR> Our pin of choice
are Blued, Diamond brand pins. On occasions we use the Japanese pins. The
difference for us is that the Diamond Blued pins clearly have a cut thread that
is not blued over & they are far more consistent in true size. The
Nippon Denro typically run on average .002 smaller than the stated size, which
can be a good thing when repinning an original block that doens't need a true
sized pin. They also make a 3 1/2 size pin. Nifty aye?<BR> The
diamond nickel /chrome plated pins appear to have had the threads cut & then
plated over which I dislike & don't trust this though I ahve used them
at one time.<BR> For my Shop made 1/4 cut maple blocks I've had the best
uniform fit from the Diamond made pins.<BR> For years Trix miked all the
pins in a set & put the largest in the bass & smallest in the trebles.
Finding something truly round is about as consistent as finding something truly
straight. Just try running a micrometer on a few sets and on differing
points on the pin & you'll see. It's a good thing wood is pliable &
forgiving.<BR> My friends once had a set of the Diamond that was
oblong/out of round but to my knowledge this was the only one we've ever
heard of. This anomaly occurred during the time when we mic'd every pin... every
set. ughh. SO diamonds are more expensive but not when you
consider we don't mic pins very often anymore & they are as reliable as
any we've tried<BR> <BR><BR> regards<BR>Dale
Erwin</FONT><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV id=AOLMsgPart_3_0de5deb4-9f56-48e7-9303-566d8dbecfd8>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>Hi, I haven't posted
to the listserve before so let's see if this works.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>I had some questions
about the different types of tuning pins and wondered if someone here could
answer them. (I'm <EM>trying</EM> to write an article about tuning
pins).</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>It might be nice
to have some discussion on something that many technicians seem to
take for granted: why tuning pins come in the types and form that they currently
do.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>(This may have all
been covered before somewhere in the Archives, but if it was, I couldn't find
it. So if it's there, I apologize in advance; could someone just point me to
where it is? Thanks.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>I've attached a
photo for reference. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>The photo refers to
the three basic types of tuning pins we routinely see. (These were all
photographed together at the same time on the same white background. The photo
is "unretouched." -The colors in the photo seem to be fatihful to the
genuine articles.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>On the far left is a
blued steel pin, in the middle a nickel plated pin, and on the far right a
nickel plated/blued thread pin. (The end pins are Nippon Denro, the middle pin I
think from an Asian piano, maybe Kawai, as it seems to be
metric.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>The pin in the
middle has generally fallen into disrepute (I think I know why, because the
threads are plated, right?) -but perhaps we need to re-examine this. Maybe this
type of pin is still valid for certain extreme humidity
applications?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>The following
questions pertain mainly to the "blued" vs "nickel-blued
pins".</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>The questions I have
are:</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>1) Why are the
threads on the "blued steel" pin a different color than on the
"nickel-blued" pin? (also - Why aren't the the threads on the "blued" pin the
same color as the unthreaded portion of the pin?)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>2) If the threads on
the "nickel-blued" pin are cut after nickel plating, (which should remove the
plating on the threads right?) and then are heated in the bluing oven, why
aren't they the same color blue as the unthreaded part of the "blued"
pin? </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>3) I
am speculating that perhaps the threads on the blued pin are cut after
bluing (which removes the bluing, to a certain extent, just like it removes the
layer of nickel plating on the nickel blued pin) while the threads on
the nickel blued pin are blued after cutting. Does the order in which
the operations are done affect the quality of the thread? Does having to cut
through nickel plating produce an inferior thread?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>4) Would anyone
here care to restate why the blued pins (as opposed to nickel-blued) are
preferred over the nickel-blued by many piano technicians?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>5) What is the real
purpose of the threads on the tuning pin, (besides to help back the pin out in
restringing. One source I have read says the threads make it easier to turn
the pin in the pinblock (as opposed to an unthreaded pin). Any thoughts on
this?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>6) Today apparently
all tuning pins have "cut" threads, as opposed to "rolled" threads. Why is this?
What does "rolled" threads mean? Why would they be inferior to cut
threads?"</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>7) Catherine
Beilefeldt, in her book "The Wonders of the Piano", in describing the process at
AMSCO (when it was still around), says that there both the nickel-blued and
blued pins were blued after threading. Does anyone know if Nippon Denro does it
differently? How about Fly Brand? Diamond?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>8) What, exactly,
are the infamous "reverse cut" threads that were touted so highly by
certain sales reps and dealers of Japanese pianos?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>9) What about Larry
Fine's and Art Reblitz's contention that if this were really the case (if the
"reverse cut" or "reverse thread" pin turned more easily in one direction than
the other) it would wear the pin block out faster?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>10) Why, really, did
manufacturers (except Bosendorfer) stop using tapered
pins? </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>I have a number of
books that touch on the manufacture of piano tuning pins, but none that really
seems to have more than a superficial understanding of why tuning pins are
made the way they are today. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>If anyone knows of a
reference work or resource that would have the history of the development
of tuning pins, or an article in the PTJ (or even a thread in the CAUT or
Pianotech archives) that addresses these issues, I would be very grateful if
they would let me know where I can find it. You can either post your
answers on the listserve, ideally, where all could benefit, or e-mail me
personally at address below, if you prefer.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008>Sincerely,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=909222614-07072008>Kendall Ross
Bean</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008>PianoFinders </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=533361603-16112007><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN
class=909222614-07072008>(</SPAN>e-mail: </FONT></FONT><A
title=mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com
href="mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>kenbean@pianofinders.com</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2>)<SPAN
class=909222614-07072008></SPAN></FONT></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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