<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/>  <style>  </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> Nick wrote: Questions: most of us know about the machine-screwed, two-step pinblock fit to the two-step plate flange (ouch). I understand per my fellow tech and friend, Les Conover of <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Albuquerque</st1:place></st1:City>, how to fit the new block using a straight ž” router bit and a router table set up. Any other (aka simpler?) ideas out there?<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Below is a picture of how Terry Farrell just replaced the tuning pin hole fields on an upright. You might consider that approach. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I’m getting ready to do one myself on a block that is fairly complex in how it fits up. The block is structurally sound, it just needs new tuning pin holes.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Dean<o:p></o:p> <u1:PERSONNAME u2:st="on">Dean May</u1:PERSONNAME>             cell 812.239.3359 <o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 <o:p></o:p> <u1:PLACE u2:st="on"><u1:CITY u2:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on"><u3:place u4:st="on"><u3:City u4:st="on">Terre Haute</st1:City></u3:place></u1:CITY></u3:City> <u1:STATE u2:st="on"><st1:State u5:st="on"><st1:State w:st="on">IN</st1:State></u1:STATE></st1:State>  <u1:POSTALCODE u2:st="on"><st1:PostalCode u6:st="on"><st1:PostalCode w:st="on">47802</st1:PostalCode></u1:POSTALCODE></st1:PostalCode></st1:place></u1:PLACE><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Farrell Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 5:33 AM To: Pianotech Subject: Re: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the piano<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I don't remember how I cut/traced out the pinblock shape. Sorry  :-(   Although application of a little Playdough to the one side of the new material and then simply pressing the piece to the cut-out area should mark it quite well.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> The sided I chiseled/pried off. It was a bit of a hassle. Since then Del Fandrich recommended to me to rent a large-diameter circular saw, cut the joint between the sides and the frame from the rear and then pry the rest. When you re-install, just epoxy in a shim the thickness of the cut. That sounds like a very good way to do it - next time.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> I'd hate to try to do this with the sides on. But then, IMHO, any upright worth replacing the pinblock is worth redesigning/installing a new soundboard!<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Terry Farrell<o:p></o:p> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Okay, a little more info then. Did you use tracing paper for the pattern and then transfer to pinblock material for cutting out on the bandsaw? Obviously you have to go so close to the sides this method requires removal of the sides, not an easy task on most pianos I’ve destroyed. I suppose I could leave the sides on and do the final near the sides with spade bits in a drill. Then fill in gaps with filler. Spade bits remove a lot of material in a hurry and offer quite a bit of control.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Thanks for sharing. I’ve thought about doing something similar but haven’t gotten the nerve yet to try. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Dean<o:p></o:p> <st1:PersonName w:st="on">Dean May</st1:PersonName> cell 812.239.3359<o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272<o:p></o:p> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Terre Haute</st1:City> <st1:State w:st="on">IN</st1:State> <st1:PostalCode w:st="on">47802</st1:PostalCode></st1:place><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> -----Original Message-----<o:p></o:p> Freehand. Just made sure I went a quarter-inch or so beyond all tuning pin holes. Obviously I ended up with an irregular pattern - but that way I saved all the original plate screw holes. I then cut the new block to match the routed out area.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Terry Farrell<o:p></o:p> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I’m curious, Terry, did you freehand the router or did you make a template?<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Farrell Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 6:39 PM To: Pianotech Subject: Re: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the piano<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> > SNIP -  I always replace the block.  On > uprights, pinblock removal is a bit more of a hassle.  Any nice suggestions > for that btw? > > David Love<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> I've only done one. I routed out the tuning pin area and epoxied in new pinblock material. Seems to have worked out quite well. Was pretty easy to do.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Terry Farrell<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <img width=640 height=480 id="_x0000_i1025" src="cid:image001.jpg@01C8E9FA.C3659790" align=baseline border=0><o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </body> </html>