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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Nick~</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>There is another way of fitting the two step pinblock. I
don't know if it is easier or faster than the router table set up, (I haven't
tried the router), but this worked well for us. It involves different
tools. (No router.) One of the problems with a router setup is that the old
pinblock sections sometimes have shrunk away from the plate flange, so if
you are using the old pinblock as a pattern or template that way, you could
still be off. (Also the router method requires a lot of setup IMHO) The
method I used allowed me to individually fit each individual "step" to its
respective flange on the plate, just like you would a normal pinblock. If you
only want to get "close" to the flange profile and then make up the difference
by glassing, I guess that's possible too.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Consider the two step pinblock as two layers that can be
"disassembled". Measure the overall thickness of the old pinblock, and
figure out how thick each layer needs to be. You will be sawing the old pinblock
apart, into two layers (or two individual steps). (By the way, this works for
all sorts of other double step pinblocks as well. It's how we used to do
Victorian Steinways.) Each one of these old pinblock "layers" can be used
as a pattern to make the layers of the new pinblock, which can be individually
fitted to the plate flanges/recesses, and then glued together, using the plate
itself, and clamps, as a fixture. (Just as you would a normal pinblock,
make each layer slightly oversize so that it can be fitted to the flange.) Drill
the machine screw holes, after the assembly is glued together, in such a
way that the bevels on the flathead machine screws pull the
block tightly against the plate flange, then mark the tuning pin
holes with a machinist's punch. Remove the glued up pinblock from the
plate recess/flange and drill it on a 7 degree tilting table on the drill
press (or if you want, you can drill it in the piano, if you have the set-up to
do that).</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>If you have a bandsaw that has sufficient height (I have
the Delta with the height attachment, but you may not need it - as I
remember the Chickering pinblock wasn't that deep/wide) you can easily saw the
old pinblock apart into the two layers. The bandsaw does make a kerf, so that's
why you need to know the thickness before you rip the old block apart. If you
use a relatively narrow blade on the bandsaw (say 3/16' or 1/4 " x 10 tpi)
it will tend to deflect backwards rather than curving to the side, making a
straighter cut than a wide blade. (A trick I learned from Mark
Duginske's Bandsaw Handbook). I use a ripping fence on the bandsaw that is
angled to compensate for the bias of the blade (have to change it for every
blade) but you can just eyeball it as well, or use one of those little resaw
point jigs to keep the pinblock vertical while you try and follow a pencil
line or the side of one of the "steps".</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>You'll need to make new pinblock layers that are the same
thickness as the ones you cut from the old pinblock, plus the kerf. It's easy to
make these from stock pinblock panels using a bandsaw to "resaw" them to
proper thickness, and then a planer or jointer to surface. You can try to
duplicate the original lamination thicknesses, using different types of pinblock
blanks, or you can just use something like Delignit.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Some pinblocks, we were able to separate the laminations
into two layers with a putty knife or chisel. They just sort of fell apart.
Others are better sawn.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>I believe I used dowel centers to locate the machine screw
holes in the new pinblock. You can also try using the old pinblock as a drilling
template, but that's dicier.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>I seem to remember on the last quarter grand I did there
were basically two pinblock sections, a bass (short), and a treble (long). But
other Chickerings we have done have different configurations. One larger grand
had four individual pinblock sections.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>If you want, I took quite a few pictures of the operation I
can e-mail you, and give you more details with the actual sequence. It
actually went quite fast, from what I remember.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Sincerely~</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Kendall Ross Bean</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=915421308-20072008>
<DIV align=left>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007>PianoFinders</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007><A
title=http://www.pianofinders.com
href="http://www.pianofinders.com/">www.pianofinders.com</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007>e-mail: <A
title=mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com
href="mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com">kenbean@pianofinders.com</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007><EM>Connecting Pianos and
People</EM></SPAN></FONT></DIV></DIV></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> Nick Gravagne
[mailto:gravagnegang@att.net] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:23
PM<BR><B>To:</B> pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Chickering Quarter Grand
Pinblock<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Hello
All,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">I have found myself knee-deep (and
delightfully so) in an authentic Chickering Quarter grand rebuild (belly job
only). <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Questions: most of us know about the
machine-screwed, two-step pinblock fit to the two-step plate flange (ouch). I
understand per my fellow tech and friend, Les Conover of Albuquerque, how to fit
the new block using a straight ¾” router bit and a router table set up. Any
other (aka simpler?) ideas out there?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Also, I would like to replace the
agraffes, but the original threaded studs are slightly smaller in diameter than
the standard size available today. Has anyone re-bored and re-tapped the holes
to accept a standard ¼” stud? Or might it be better to remove and
recondition the existing agraffes?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Progress thus far: the crowned
soundboard is made and fitted to the case; the bridges are underway; and it is
now time to begin thinking seriously about the
block.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Thanks for your
consideration.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoAutoSig><EM><B><I><FONT face="Trebuchet MS" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Trebuchet MS'">Nick
Gravagne, RPT</SPAN></FONT></I></B></EM><o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></BODY></HTML>