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<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Regarding the Baldwin bridle 
wires that are shaped somewhat like a question mark as opposed to the 
traditional ones with the triangular "retaining loop,":</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; First of all, they're not 
"bridal" wires.&nbsp; "Bridal" has to do with brides.&nbsp; They're "bridle" 
wires, i.e., a strap for connecting something to something else, such as a 
horse's bridle.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Anyway, I've also encountered 
pianos where someone has attempted to glue the tabs to the wires.&nbsp; But the 
vibrations and micro-shocks to the glue joint while playing eventually work them 
loose again.&nbsp; The bridles' coming off the top of the wire is not so bad -- 
the piano will still play.&nbsp; A worse problem is when the holes in the tabs 
enlarge and the bridles work&nbsp;their way <EM>down</EM> the wire.&nbsp; 
Then&nbsp;the wippen is kept from returning as easily, and there's not enough 
lost motion to allow the jack to return, causing "sticking keys," no repetition, 
etc.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I decided to turn the action 
upside down and apply a dab of rubber cement or Barge glue to the 
<EM>under</EM>side of the tabs.&nbsp; The Barge or rubber cement seems to stick 
to the wire better than Titebond or Elmer's.&nbsp; And the glue on the underside 
prevents the bridle from sliding down the wire.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Worked great.&nbsp; I 
don't&nbsp;know what else to do on these pianos. &nbsp;I can't imagine that type 
of bridle wire was all that less expensive to make than the 
traditional&nbsp;ones.&nbsp; Bad decision on Baldwin's part.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; --David Nereson, 
RPT</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>