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<DIV>Transfer letters and numbers are not necessarily a thing of the past.
I found the website of the company that made the transfers I still have on
hand.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Go to: <A href="http://www.letraset.com">www.letraset.com</A> and see
if they have the size and style of letters and numbers that are preferred.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Tony Bajada</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 8/2/2008 3:24:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tompiano@bellsouth.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000
size=2>Jon<BR>Thanks for this tip. Just ordered the pen.<BR>Actually I've been
using a set up similar to this but not as nice. I'll let <BR>you know the
results.<BR>Incidentally, I had put out a query about finding rub-on transfer
numbers <BR>for string scale markings. I've struck out at all of the hobby and
art <BR>stores online. There's plenty of lettering, but the transfer
numbers seem <BR>to be a thing of the past. If anyone has a specific store
which is handling <BR>the transfer numbers, I'd me mighty appreciative.<BR>Tom
Servinsky<BR>----- Original Message ----- <BR>From: "Jon Page"
<jonpage@comcast.net><BR>To: <pianotech@ptg.org><BR>Sent: Friday,
August 01, 2008 7:15 PM<BR>Subject: Plate Lettering<BR><BR><BR>> Felt tip
markers do not work well in the long run, they fade and shrink in <BR>>
from the edges.<BR>><BR>> I have been using a fluid writing pen:<BR>>
http://www.dickblick.com/zz649/11/<BR>><BR>> with water-based black
acrylic paint, thin size for outline, thick for <BR>>
fill-in.<BR>><BR>> Gild the plate and spray clear finish coat, touching
the plate will cause <BR>> oxidation<BR>> down the line. It is not
advisable to apply a lacquer topcoat over water <BR>> based<BR>>
products, they are not compatible. It might lift them off or cause them to
<BR>> crackle,<BR>> been there, done that.<BR>><BR>> Applying to
clear coat, the water based material can be wiped off if a <BR>> mistake is
made<BR>> without compromising the gilded surface. I used to use black
lacquer and <BR>> there was no<BR>> such thing as a small mistake. The
gloss black acrylic does not need a top <BR>> coat.<BR>><BR>>
Application is a bit pains-taking for a primo job. Outline first. Apply
<BR>> the left edge on all characters and the top. Go back and do the right
edge <BR>> and the bottom. Go back and fill in.<BR>> If you try to do
the entire character all at once it can pool too thick <BR>> and run. A
neater, faster job is accomplished with outlining first. Heck, <BR>> if you
have a real steady hand you can leave<BR>> the treble logo on S&S's as
outline characters just as original. I can't <BR>>
:-(<BR>><BR>> These fluid writing pens produce sharp, clean characters,
better than a <BR>> brush;<BR>> especially for us untrained
calligraphers.<BR>> -- <BR>><BR>> Regards,<BR>><BR>> Jon
Page<BR>> <BR><BR><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT><BR><BR><BR><DIV><FONT style="color: black; font: normal 10pt ARIAL, SAN-SERIF;"><HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px">Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? <A title="http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017" href="http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017" target="_blank">Read reviews on AOL Autos</A>.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>