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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Ah, Fenton there is a good way to do this and get it very snug
without munging up the sides of the case. Fully fit the pinblock as you would
in your usual fashion for fit to the stretcher and treble end. I then cut the
bass end short by about ˝ inch (the exact amount doesn’t really matter).
Set the block in the piano and butt it up against the treble end and stretcher.
Measure the gap to the bass end rim. Cut a fill piece of pinblock stock to
that measure, but with a 1 degree taper, so that it is narrower at the bottom than
the top. Do a partial dry fit (you need to be able to get it out again). Sometimes
I need to feather it down on my table belt sander until it is just right. When
you are ready to glue the block in, butter it with glue and tap it in place.
It should seat on the ledge and look like it belongs there. Voila, your fully
fitted block and intact case sides.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I would love to take credit for this to prove how smart I am,
but it is a trick that I learned from Chris Robinson years ago. I fully fit
any block that the case and plate allow, and this has long been my practice. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Will Truitt<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Fenton
Murray<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, August 03, 2008 4:34 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Pianotech List<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>List,</span><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Of
all the contact and glue surfaces of the full fit block certainly the ones with
the least structural significance must be the end grain glue joint at the rim.
In many woodworking aplications this is left to float, but not in the wooden
fortress circle of sound. I enjoy attempting to fit all of these joints as well
as I can if for no other reason than to be able to look under the plate and see
something that looks like it did 100 years ago. But this end joint is about the
hardest to nail, even when attained it's impossible to get into the piano.
So, I inevetably slip in the veneer at the end which always seems difficult and
messy to do and never looks quite right. I do under cut the ends slightly.</span><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>I
would love to read procedures for nailing this left, right, tight at both ends
fit. It is, after all one that can be seen by every one.</span><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Fenton</span><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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