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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Michael,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I like it. I can see my problem now, I was trying to be as
exact as possible, sometimes ending up with things almost perfect, but not
quite, and sometimes needing a 32nd of veneer. Your method accepts the
inevitable, it's easier to deal with a 4mm piece than a 1mm. Try pounding a
piece of veneer in with a mallet, duh!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>My method for dowelling is probably as much to say I
installed blind dowels as any structural gain. Pins are installed at the dowel
locations in the block and snipped off at 1/8" or so, during a mock up the block
is struck leaving center marks in the stretcher, pins are removed from block,
block and stretcher drilled 1/16 oversized for the dowelling, holes are flooded
with glue, my glue up is essentially the same as yours with the plate installed
with the glue wet, there is then plenty of up and down play to allow the plate
to pull the block home. Credit given to Christian Bolduc for this method,
obviously Bolduc Acoustical Glue must be used for this operation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I have also done glue ups without the plate being
installed by placing a pinblock jack under the new block during a mock up. With
the jack set so as to just touch the bottom of the block in the middle of the
keybed, I now have a height reference for the glue up of the new block, dig?
Scribe marks and all kinds of other notes, references and OCD stuff can also
make an accurate job with out the plate.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>thanks for your help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Fenton</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=m_spreeman@hotmail.com href="mailto:m_spreeman@hotmail.com">Michael
Spreeman</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, August 03, 2008 4:44
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Doweled and Fully Fit
Pinblocks</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Hi Fenton, <BR> <BR>When doing full fit blocks, we
would fit the block so the fatter treble end would butt up against the
outer rim perfectly. (This being after the block has been located, height has
been established, height/angle shims fit if necessary, stretcher rail/block
joint fit, dry clamped in and 3 screw holes in the treble and 1 in the
bass drilled through the block and into the inner rim). The bass end would be
cut so that it was approximately 4mm from the rim. A piece of the pinblock
scrap that was cut-off during the initial rough fit would then be dry fit into
the gap. (When laying out the new block, one can plan ahead to allow a little
extra material on the bass end and the end cut off piece will mate almost
perfect when fit as the shim.) When dry fitting the assembly, make sure the
shim isn't too tight in order to allow for slight expansion when the glue is
applied (providing you're not using epoxy or other non-water based
glue).<BR> <BR>The block is removed and the pilot screw holes are opened
up for the screw body and countersunk. <BR> <BR>At glue up time, we
would lay out the clamps and have the plate suspended above the case. All glue
surfaces are coated, including the bass shim on both sides, and the
block is set into the case and pulled toward the treble side. The screws
are installed and the bass shim is pounded in with a larger wooden block and
mallet.<BR> <BR>Drop the plate in and put random screws to pull the block
up tight. Clamp the stretcher to the block and clean things up. Let the glue
set and pull the plate. Finish by installing half inch dowels through the
block into the rim in between the screws (this will insure your ring of fire
<IMG
src="http://gfx1.hotmail.com/mail/w3/pr01/ltr/../emoticons/smile_wink.gif">).
Sand the bass end shim and the job will look (better than) factory
fresh.<BR><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV><EM><FONT face="" color=#330033><FONT face="Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif"
color=#330000>
Michael Spreeman </FONT><BR></FONT></EM><FONT face="" color=#000066><A
href="http://www.spreemanpianoinnovations.com/">http://www.spreemanpianoinnovations.com</A></FONT></DIV><BR><BR>
<HR id=EC_stopSpelling>
From: fmurray@cruzio.com<BR>To: pianotech@ptg.org<BR>Subject: Re: Doweled and
Fully Fit Pinblocks<BR>Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 14:34:14 -0700<BR><BR>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>List,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Of all the contact and glue surfaces of the full fit
block certainly the ones with the least structural significance must be the
end grain glue joint at the rim. In many woodworking aplications this is left
to float, but not in the wooden fortress circle of sound. I enjoy attempting
to fit all of these joints as well as I can if for no other reason than to be
able to look under the plate and see something that looks like it did 100
years ago. But this end joint is about the hardest to nail, even when
attained it's impossible to get into the piano. So, I inevetably slip in the
veneer at the end which always seems difficult and messy to do and never looks
quite right. I do under cut the ends slightly.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I would love to read procedures for nailing this left,
right, tight at both ends fit. It is, after all one that can be seen by every
one.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Fenton</FONT></DIV><BR>
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