<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <STYLE>.hmmessage P { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } BODY.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma } </STYLE> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16674" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY class=hmmessage bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Well, I don't know about you, but I'm all over this spirit removal system from John Delacour. As for now I use the Bolduc cutter, I leave on 1/8" or so, so I don't need to worry about the angle, I do like your idea of an angle build up on the stretcher to duplicate the cut on back. I always leave a little extra and then spend a little more time working with an off set router and hand tools finishing with an iron and wet rags to loosen the last 32nd or so. There is usually some mahogany veneer damage which I either repair with a filler or completely remove depending on the extent of damage.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Now back to blind dowels, and I also agree it is probably way over kill, not that that will stop me. I can't prove it but I've got to believe that the dowels add way more strength to this joint than the small percentage of glue area that is gained as David Hughes pointed out. This is moot if the joint is strong enough as is. I need an engineer, NICK!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Fenton</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=m_spreeman@hotmail.com href="mailto:m_spreeman@hotmail.com">Michael Spreeman</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:30 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV>Fenton,<BR> <BR>The pinblock jack option is a great idea.  I dig brotha.<BR>I still side with David Hughes on the blind dowels. If the joint is a nice clean fit, you're going to have adequate coupling between stretcher and block. But then again, how many techs does it take to install a new Stnwy block?  20.  1 to install it and 19 to tell him/her what they're doing wrong.<BR> <BR>Can we back up a step?  How are y'all removing your original blocks?  I've seen 3 styles of Stnwy stretchers. On the ones with an angle on the outer face and perpendicular on the inner face, we had an angled piece of spruce we would we would tape to the front of the stretcher in to run the router along (with the Bolduc cutter). This results in a perpendicular cut at the block joint. <BR><BR><BR> <DIV><EM><FONT face="" color=#330033><FONT face="Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif" color=#330000>                Michael Spreeman </FONT><BR></FONT></EM><FONT face="" color=#000066><A href="http://www.spreemanpianoinnovations.com/">http://www.spreemanpianoinnovations.com</A></FONT></DIV><BR><BR> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> </BLOCKQUOTE><BR> <HR> Get more from your digital life. <A href="http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home2_082008" target=_new>Find out how.</A> </BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>