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<body class='hmmessage'>Fenton,<BR>
<BR>
I've used the block and screw show like yours. I prefer to plug the holes with maple plugs cut from the bridge capping material. When they are glued in with the grain orentation the same as the cap, they will expand and contract with the cap and remain invisible. I'd rather cover my tracks, but then I guess I'm losing the built in moister meter <G>.<BR>
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I loath capping in the piano, but sometimes it's necessary. I put together this drilling fixture for boring the bridge pin holes that really improved accuracy over hand boring. It's basically a knock off of one I saw at the Fazioli factory. There is a slow speed, very accurate pneumatic drill with rear exhaust (so there's no oil spitting on the cap as with the front exhaust style) mounted onto a drawer slide with muffler clamps. The drill unit arm pivots on the base to allow access at various points to the bridge. <BR><BR><BR>
<DIV><EM><FONT face="" color=#330033><FONT face="Geneva, Arial, Sans-serif" color=#330000> Michael Spreeman </FONT><BR></FONT></EM><FONT face="" color=#000066><A href="http://www.spreemanpianoinnovations.com/">http://www.spreemanpianoinnovations.com</A></FONT></DIV><BR><BR>
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