<div dir="ltr">These are indeed square tuning pins that screw first in the iron plate and also into the block.<br>I could bore them out but then the thread will be wasted, so have to make a new (English?)<br>thread in the plate and make a new pin.<br>
A pin extractor seems a possibility but one pin has broken just at the level of the plate.<br>The pins are tight enough before I pull them out so I hope they stay that way.<br>I think making new pins could be done by a company in my region.Hopefully with the same <br>
square shape and same material.<br>I've also read about using PTFE tape for using just the lenght that goes into the wood.<br>Anyone have experience with this Teflon tape and is this easy to find?<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">
On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 10:15 PM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:pianotech-request@ptg.org">pianotech-request@ptg.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
Send Pianotech mailing list submissions to<br>
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>
than "Re: Contents of Pianotech digest..."<br>
<br>Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: Plate Lettering (Fenton Murray)<br>
2. Decapping bridges with a router (Richard Brekne)<br>
3. BC Technical was:Stretcher (Richard Brekne)<br>
4. Re: Decapping bridges with a router (Fenton Murray)<br>
5. Re: Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks (Ron Nossaman)<br>
6. undesired business (Alan Forsyth)<br>
7. RE: Broadwood broken tuning pin (Gevaert Pierre)<br>
8. Re: Decapping bridges with a router (Paul T Williams)<br>
9. Re: Decapping the bridge (David Love)<br>
<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: "Fenton Murray" <<a href="mailto:fmurray@cruzio.com">fmurray@cruzio.com</a>><br>To: "Pianotech List" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:15:06 -0700<br>Subject: Re: Plate Lettering<br>Decals Unlimited stocks a product for this that is expensive but has worked for me.<br>
Fenton<br>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Servinsky" <<a href="mailto:tompiano@bellsouth.net" target="_blank">tompiano@bellsouth.net</a>><br>
To: "Pianotech List" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target="_blank">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 6:37 PM<br>
Subject: Re: Plate Lettering<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
Thank you Barbara. That's what I'm looking for.<br>
Tom<br>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Barbara Richmond" <<a href="mailto:piano57@comcast.net" target="_blank">piano57@comcast.net</a>><br>
To: "Pianotech List" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target="_blank">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 2:31 PM<br>
Subject: Re: Plate Lettering<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
Pianotek carries packets of rub-on numbers.<br>
<br>
Barbara Richmond, RPT<br>
near Peoria, IL<br>
<br>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Servinsky" <<a href="mailto:tompiano@bellsouth.net" target="_blank">tompiano@bellsouth.net</a>><br>
To: "Pianotech List" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target="_blank">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 10:24 AM<br>
Subject: Re: Plate Lettering<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
Up until last year I was able to purchase 4 full sheets of numerals ( 8, 10, 12, and 14 font size) for about $4 a pack. Those packets have disappeared from the likes of Office Depot, Staples, and most hobby stores. Apparently the rub on numbers packets were aimed at the architects doing blueprint<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: Richard Brekne <<a href="mailto:ricb@pianostemmer.no">ricb@pianostemmer.no</a>><br>To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 20:26:00 +0100<br>
Subject: Decapping bridges with a router<br>I suppose you would, tho you perhaps are just as likely to find some variances in height of the root itself as well. I would think tho that if the most significant variations in bridge height are due to differences of cap thickness it was because of shaving the cap after the bridge assembly was glued to the panel. Routing off to fairly closely match the joint line just puts you back in that original state then when you glue on a new uniform thickness cap yes ? A Marking Gauge can easily be used to mark a given distance up from the panel as it can down from the bridge surface....so whatever situation you are looking at can be dealt with.<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
RicB<br>
<br>
I find that variations in bridge height almost always come about<br>
as function<br>
of differences in thickness of the cap, not the root. <br>
David Love<br>
davidlovepianos at <a href="http://comcast.net" target="_blank">comcast.net</a><br>
<a href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com" target="_blank">www.davidlovepianos.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
Grin... now thats what I call a dream ! How long ago did you take that<br>
Del, and out of curiosity.... what do you do about handling the point<br>
raised earlier about dealing with the variant heights of the original<br>
bridge ?<br>
<br>
RicB<br>
<br>
See the attached.<br>
<br>
ddf<br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080802/427bc043/attachment.jpe" target="_blank">https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080802/427bc043/attachment.jpe</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: Richard Brekne <<a href="mailto:ricb@pianostemmer.no">ricb@pianostemmer.no</a>><br>To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 20:29:40 +0100<br>
Subject: BC Technical was:Stretcher<br>I have heard from many friends all kinds of superlatives about the recent seminar André gave in BC and would have loved to have been able to attend. The unsung hero here is one Jack Houweling who had a major hand in making this happen. Hands across the seas again... Well done Jack !<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
RicB<br>
<br>
<br>
> I wish that I could have attended you BC technical session.<br>
> Hopefully one day we will get a chance to raise a glass together.<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
<br>
Jon,<br>
<br>
I had a great time, and have never before experienced such warmth, friendliness and generosity.<br>
The level too was very high.<br>
I have very nice memories of this seminar.<br>
<br>
I would very much like to raise that glass of wine!<br>
(;>)<br>
<br>
friendly greetings<br>
from<br>
André Oorebeek<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: "Fenton Murray" <<a href="mailto:fmurray@cruzio.com">fmurray@cruzio.com</a>><br>To: "Pianotech List" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:37:13 -0700<br>Subject: Re: Decapping bridges with a router<br>
<div bgcolor="#ffffff">
<div><font size="2" face="Arial">Ron,</font></div>
<div><font size="2" face="Arial">Wow, this approach of a complete track down both
sides of the bridge has occurred to me but always seemed to complicated. Thanks
for the great photos and description.</font></div>
<div><font size="2" face="Arial">Fenton</font></div>
<div>----- Original Message ----- </div>
<blockquote dir="ltr" style="border-left: 2px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding-right: 0px; padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px;">
<div style="background: rgb(228, 228, 228) none repeat scroll 0% 0%; -moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial; font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;">
<b>From:</b>
<a title="sec@overspianos.com.au" href="mailto:sec@overspianos.com.au" target="_blank">Ron
Overs</a> </div>
<div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;"><b>To:</b> <a title="pianotech@ptg.org" href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target="_blank">Pianotech List</a> </div>
<div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;"><b>Cc:</b> <a title="bronwyn@bijl.co.nz" href="mailto:bronwyn@bijl.co.nz" target="_blank">Bronwyn Bijl</a> ; <a title="canterburybenz@hotmail.com" href="mailto:canterburybenz@hotmail.com" target="_blank">Miles Warner</a> </div>
<div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;"><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, August 03, 2008 5:53
AM</div>
<div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;"><b>Subject:</b> Re: Decapping bridges with a
router</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Hi all,</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>I've been following this thread which David started, and since the
process we use doesn't seem to have been covered by anyone here is an outline,
with image links, of the procedure we use when recapping a bridge without
disturbing the original board (in cases where the board is deemed to be
satisfactory, ie. stiff enough, for wearing out another set of hammers and
wire).</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>We find that most of the time, when fitting new bridge caps, we usually
will want to make some adjustments to the bridge height. After removing the
strings, an assessment of the current bridge heights are made before removing
the plate. If the bridge height needs to be raised, we glue small blocks of an
appropriate thickness to the existing bridge caps. The blocks are made
precisely to the height we wish to raise the bridge at each measurement point.
This will provide a reference height for manufacturing the router guides so
that they conform to the revised bridge height profile. The image link below
shows our most recent rebuild of a 2001 Hamburg Steinway D. Initially, I
thought we were going to need to build a new board for this piano. The board's
strung crown was turned quite inside-out in the high treble string sections at
the rib feathering behind the bridge. But after stripping the piano the board
seemed to recover its crown quite nicely, so a decision was made to keep the
original board and bridge root. The original string scale of this piano had
shorter speaking lengths in the high treble, when compared to model Ds we've
rebuilt in the past. Our previous model D string scale re-designs wouldn't fit
this piano. So I designed a new string scale similar to our previous revised
model-D log scales, to enable the new string scale to fit on the original
bridge root. Take a look at the first image by opening the link below.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><font size="-4" color="#000000" face="Lucida Grande"><a href="http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd1.jpg" target="_blank">http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd1.jpg</a></font></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>You can see the router guides are finished to the desired height, ready
for routing off the bridge caps. The templates for the new string scale, which
must be determined before routing off the original caps, are sitting on the
iron plate, just to the right of the case. For this job, we decided to retain
the original board finish, since it was still in good condition. First,
masking tape is laid down on the board where the runners will be attached to
the board. The wax surface on the top of the masking tape is removed by wiping
the tape with lacquer thinners. This ensures that the adhesive will stick to
the masking tape. The runners are cut slightly higher than required, with the
bottom surface cut to approximately follow the contour of the board. The
accuracy of the lower contour is not critical, since we fix the runners to the
tape using body filler. Once the filler hardens we plane and scrape the
runners until we arrive at the desired bridge height and profile. Note the
small blocks we have glued to the lower section of the bass bridge and the
lower half-section of the treble bridge. This piano had insufficient
downbearing in the low bass and low end of the long bridge, while there was
quite a bit too much downbearing in the high treble (which was why the board's
crown when strung was turned inside-out in the high treble). The down bearing
can be reduced to the desired angle by packing the rear duplex strips with
hardwood made to an appropriate thickness. While we could have adjusted the
high treble downbearing by reducing the height of the new cap, I didn't want
to do this because this piano had an original bridge height in the high treble
which was only 30 mm. Taking another 1.0 - 1.5 mm off this height would make
what I believe to be an already marginally low bridge height for a concert
grand treble bridge even lower. So we decided a better route for the high
treble in this instance would be to pack up the rear duplex strips.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The beauty of using masking tape for board-finish protection, and using
body filler to fix the runners to the tape, is that once the bridge cap has
been routed off, the runners can simply be pulled off the board leaving it
completely undamaged.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><font size="-4" color="#000000" face="Lucida Grande"><a href="http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd2.jpg" target="_blank">http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd2.jpg</a></font></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The above image link shows the same piano once the new bridge caps were
fitted, and the notching, sealing and pinning completed. Notice that the new
log string scale results in pin-lines which form uniform curves. Next time you
get your eye under the lid of a standard D, have a look along the pin-lines,
particularly those in the string section shown in the image. They don't look
like this. Instruments equipped with his type of scale will make it easier to
lay a tempered scale, and the tuning stability will be improved as a
consequence of the piano having a smoother percentage of breaking strain
deviation.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><font size="-4" color="#000000" face="Lucida Grande"><a href="http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd3.jpg" target="_blank">http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd3.jpg</a></font></div>
<div>(<i>this original image was provided courtesy of Reubin Bijl who took a
series of images at the launch concert in early June)</i></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The above link shows an image of the finished piano, during its launch
concert at the Music School of Christchurch. The underside of the top lid has
quite a good reflection because we flatten and polish this surface to the same
standard as for the outside of the case. I realise that most manufacturers
don't bother too much with the under side of the lid, including the original
manufacturer of this piano. But this image shows just what a difference
high-polishing the underside of the lid makes. Yes I know its only cosmetic,
but that's also part of the concert experience.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Ron Overs</div><pre>--
</pre>
<div><font size="+1" color="#0000ff" face="Times New Roman"><b>OVERS PIANOS -
SYDNEY</b></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000"><i> </i></font><font color="#0000ff"><i>Grand Piano Manufacturers</i></font><font color="#000000"><br>_______________________</font></div>
<div><font size="-2" color="#000000"><br></font><font color="#000000">Web
<a href="http://overspianos.com.au" target="_blank">http://overspianos.com.au</a></font></div>
<div><font color="#000000">mailto:<a href="mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au" target="_blank">ron@overspianos.com.au</a><br>_______________________</font></div></blockquote></div>
<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: Ron Nossaman <<a href="mailto:rnossaman@cox.net">rnossaman@cox.net</a>><br>To: Pianotech List <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 13:43:36 -0500<br>Subject: Re: Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks<br>Michael Spreeman wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
<br>
To David Love, I think the attribute to the removable stretcher, unattached block scenario is the ability to extract the plate, block, and strings in order to repair the cracks in the CC boards of many of the pianos that come to the dry west climate from factories where the instruments are constructed in an environment that has no RH control (you can read between the lines on that one!).<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
When Baldwin went to this system, their parts lists started carrying entire soundboard assemblies, finished, with pinned bridges and everything. I expect a board could be replaced, strings back up to pitch, and dampers adjusted in less than two days.<br>
Ron N<br>
<br>
<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: "Alan Forsyth" <<a href="mailto:noodles@oodles.orangehome.co.uk">noodles@oodles.orangehome.co.uk</a>><br>To: "Pianotech List" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 19:59:52 +0100<br>Subject: undesired business<br>
<div style="" bgcolor="#ffffff">
<div><b><font size="2" face="Arial"></font></b> </div>
<div><br></div>
<div><b><font size="2" face="Arial">I just tell them that I retired 2 weeks
ago.</font></b></div>
<div><b><font size="2" face="Arial"></font></b> </div>
<div><b><font size="2" face="Arial">AF</font></b></div>
<blockquote style="border-left: 2px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); padding-right: 0px; padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px;">
<div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div>
<div><span style="word-spacing: 0px; font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 18px; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; text-transform: none; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-indent: 0px; white-space: normal; letter-spacing: normal; border-collapse: separate;"><font face="Arial Narrow">What words are used to tell a customer you hate
their piano and don't want to work on it anymore?</font></span></div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div style="">
<div>
<div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div bgcolor="#ffffff">
<div><font face="Arial Narrow"> --David Nereson,
RPT</font></div></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div></blockquote></div><br></blockquote></div>
<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: "Gevaert Pierre" <<a href="mailto:pierre.gevaert@belgacom.net">pierre.gevaert@belgacom.net</a>><br>To: "'Pianotech List'" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 20:59:56 +0200<br>Subject: RE: Broadwood broken tuning pin<br>
<div link="blue" vlink="purple" lang="FR">
<div>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">Hi, </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">The Boudoir grands I know about have the (square)pins
screwed for about 2/3 into the iron plate and 1/3 into wood.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">I tuned several and some stayed in tune
quite well (afther more than 130 years !)</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">Others had the pins to loose. I don't
know if it is possible to find such tuning pins nor if it these would hold
better.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">There is some explanation on the lest front
side of the soundboard near the basstrings but I think this is only to explain
how to change a string.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;"> I'm also interested to know how to make
this kind of pins tight again.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">Like some use ca glue for wooden pinblocks would
it be possible to use a kind of product like Locktite for metal threads ?</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">This is used for making the threads tighter
and exists in several strenghts. </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">Of course this may sound stange for using
this kind of stuff for historical pianos but I can't see another way
exept maybe make threaded pins that are a little bigger or maybe a better
choise to change the wooden part of the block (beech)so that at least the pins
get some new grip there.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">In this way it would be possible to clean
and reuse the original pins.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">There are many of those Boudoir grands
remaining today so I would eventually be possible to find another similar
instrument for using spare parts.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" color="navy" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy;">Pierre
Gevaert</span></font><font color="navy"><span style="color: navy;"></span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">-----Message d'origine-----<br>
De : <a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" target="_blank">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" target="_blank">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] De la
part de John Delacour<br>
Envoyé : dimanche 3 août 2008 19:58<br>
À : Pianotech List<br>
Objet : Re: Broadwood broken tuning pin</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">At 15:28 +0200 3/8/08, stephan van meirhaeghe wrote:</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">>Hi list,</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">>I'm now restoring a Broadwood grand 'Boudoir' and had to remove all
</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">>the tuning pins because to rusty and not possible to tune...</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">>Anywone had similar problems?And where can I find similar pins?Or
do </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">>I need make new ones?</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Are you talking of the threaded pins that screw into an iron plate? </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">If so, send a photo. I can't help you but I'll be doing some work </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">with a colleague soon who may have some.</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">JD</span></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Courier New"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></font></p>
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<br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: Paul T Williams <<a href="mailto:pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu">pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu</a>><br>To: Pianotech List <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 15:13:47 -0500<br>Subject: Re: Decapping bridges with a router<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">David,</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Contact Roger Gable in Everett, Washington
at rgable2@verizon. net. He and I did this on an old Steinway K about
5 years ago, but don't remember how the jig was set up.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Paul</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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<td width="40%"><font size="1" face="sans-serif"><b>"David Love"
<<a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net" target="_blank">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</a>></b> </font>
<br><font size="1" face="sans-serif">Sent by: <a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" target="_blank">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a></font>
<p><font size="1" face="sans-serif">08/01/2008 10:03 PM</font>
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<div align="center"><font size="1" face="sans-serif">Please respond to<br>
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</td><td><font size="1" face="sans-serif">Decapping bridges with a router</font></td></tr></tbody></table>
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<br><tt><font size="2">A couple of years ago I saw (or dreamt) a router adaptation
to take the<br>
bridge cap off. It consisted of a couple of elevated skids attached
to the<br>
router base that straddled the bridge so that you could basically run a<br>
router down the length of the bridge and take the bridge top down--very<br>
fast, very smooth. Does anyone use that system and can send me a
picture of<br>
the skids and how they attached them? I have some ideas myself but<br>
shortcuts are always welcome. <br>
<br>
David Love<br>
<a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net" target="_blank">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</a> <br>
<a href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com" target="_blank">www.davidlovepianos.com</a><br>
<br>
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</font></tt>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: "David Love" <<a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</a>><br>To: "'Pianotech List'" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 13:15:37 -0700<br>Subject: Re: Decapping the bridge<br>JDs method of removing the cap whole is pretty nice and fairly simple. You<br>
can see from the photos attached I have removed the bass cap and am in the<br>
process of starting the long bridge. The bass cap took about 15 minutes.<br>
Getting the cap off in one piece after premeasuring the bearing and<br>
calculating any necessary changes certainly makes it a lot easier to pre<br>
shape and set the proper thickness of the new caps before gluing them on.<br>
Thanks JD for the suggestion. Learn something new everyday (hopefully).<br>
Thanks all for the router skid suggestions as well. There is certainly an<br>
appropriate use for that procedure as well.<br>
<br>
David Love<br>
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