<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)">  <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> This comes up from time to time.  Why would you glue, shellac or put anything sticky on the guide rail?  You’ll curse yourself the next time you have to rebush the rail.  I have never glued the felt and have never had a bushing move.  Of course this is with the single felt bushings and I use the felt that’s made to fit when you just pull it through the hole.  When I encounter those awful double bushed rails, I replace them with new ones and drill for the single felt.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> But, glue???<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> dp<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> David M. Porritt, RPT<o:p></o:p> <a href="mailto:dporritt@smu.edu">dporritt@smu.edu</a><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of paulrevenkojones@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 4:01 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: /steinway B<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Ric and Les: Actually, after plugging and redrilling, and using shellac to seal as well as in the guide hole, if you size the new cloth with a bridge pin and 50/50 alcohol/water, the alcohol will slightly dissolve the shellac in the hole and create a bond with the bushing cloth. No need to glue in the cloth. Paul<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> -----Original Message----- From: Richard Brekne <ricb@pianostemmer.no> To: pianotech@ptg.org Sent: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 1:27 pm Subject: /steinway B<o:p></o:p> <div id="AOLMsgPart_0_11b6a119-7fd6-4a9b-b1a5-6763cfba5b13"> Thanks for info. I would plug and redrill with trepidation, but that seems the logical choice.    les    Hi Les    Not to worry its quite easy. Might I offer a couple pieces of advice in doing this that may save you a bit of ergelse ? First, often (most times) the underside of the guide hole is beveled. You can pre-bevel your plug to accommodate this. Secondly, and this goes rather hand in hand with the first, make the plug flush with the bottom of the guide rail when you glue it. You can easily sand smooth from the top and dab a brush of Shellack over the top when finished. Third, swab the inside of the newly drilled hole with shellack just before you run your bushing cloth through. It will let dry for a bit and trim excess with a very sharp razor knife... I like buying those use and throw away exacto like thingys available at most hardware stores myself.    I have it written somewhere, but I cant find it right off hand, that the diameter of the bushed hole should be about a half a mm larger then your damper wire. So you want to figure your bushing cloth thickness and this into the diameter of the hole you drill.    I suppose you know all this already... but thought it might be good to throw it out on the table anyways.    Cheers  RicB     <o:p></o:p> </div> <div id=u8CAC5558000E6B3-A74-2456> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='margin-top:7.5pt;text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> It's time to go back to school! Get the latest trends and gadgets that make the grade on <a href="http://shopping.aol.com/back-to-school?ncid=aolins00050000000007" target="_blank" title="http://shopping.aol.com/back-to-school?ncid=aolins00050000000007">AOL Shopping</a>. <o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </body> </html>