<html><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Gregor,<div>That sounds like what we call "contact-cement". Presumably you are actually using something that will allow removal and replacement of the keytops at a later date. ??</div><div><br></div><div>Andrew Anderson</div><div><br><div><div>On Aug 18, 2008, at 10:11 AM, Gregor _ wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0; "><div class="hmmessage" style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Tahoma; ">Jim,<br><br>I use a glue called Pattex which is made by Henkel and is based on a exhausted patent of 3M. As far I know itīs not available in the USA under the brand name Pattex. The advantage of Pattex is that not the clamping time is important but the pressure. You apply Pattex on the wood and on the keytop, wait 10 minutes and then you press it with much pressure together. Usualy I work on one octave because of these 10 minutes waiting time before going on with the next octave. As far I know thatīs the standard procedure here in Germany. But I donīt know which material the standard keytops are made of and if it works on that pcv-e (whatever that might be), but I think so because Pattex glues nearly everything.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br><br>If that sounds good for you it might be an option to ask Henkel or 3M if that stuff is selled in the USA under a different brand name.<br><br>Gregor<br><br><br><br>> From:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="mailto:jimialeggio5@comcast.net">jimialeggio5@comcast.net</a><br>> To:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>> Subject: pvc-e?<br>> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:50:49 +0000<br>><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>> What's the minimum clamp time for pcv-e applying plastic keytops?<br>><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>> The clamping I'm talking about is very light pressure, just enough to conform the plastic veneer to the wooden surface.<br>><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>> My adhesion tests showed a rubbed joint to be comparable to a joint clamped overnight, but that's the case with most glues. Non-clamping assumes perfect mating surfaces ....hard for me to achieve consistently in real life.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>> And what exactly is this stuff. PVC-e doesn't even come up on any searches I've done. Latex? Acrylic? PVA?...naah<br>><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>> --<br>> Jim Ialeggio<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br>><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="http://www.grandpianosolutions.com">www.grandpianosolutions.com</a><br>> Shirley, MA (978) 425-9026<br><br><hr>Discover the new Windows Vista<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE" target="_new">Learn more!</a></div></span></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>