<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3395" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Hi John,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I don't think I've ever used alcohol/water on a newish action, but on many 30+ to 100 year old pianos for sure. I like the method and have had very good results from it. I honestly don't know what % alcohol/water I've been using because I keep a bottle with some in there and when it gets low I pour in some water and some alcohol. When I apply it I make sure there is high % alcohol so that it soaks in. Then subsequent passes are with a higher % water (just to be sure to get lots of water in the bushings.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I bring the action to my shop, soak the action centers down - I usually go through them two or three times to be sure to get 'em all good. Then let dry AT LEAST overnight - preferably 24 to 48 hours. I'd estimate that 95+% of the time that frees up any action center. I keep my shop at about 50% RH.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I have tried the hair dryer a couple times with generally disasterous results - I have found that slow natural drying is superior. I will put a small fan on low for some minimal air movement.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I use denatured alcohol. Don't know why. Someone probably told me that was better. Anyway, I have a gallon in my shop, so that's what I use.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Good luck!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=formsma@gmail.com href="mailto:formsma@gmail.com">John Formsma</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr>Is the alcohol/water sizing method for centers most effective on newer centers that haven't had several seasons of changes? <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>With the relatively few times I've tried sizing with alcohol and water, it hasn't worked so well.  The bushings were either so tight that that kind of sizing wasn't appropriate, or (as it turned out) corrosion was the main friction culprit. And it has been mainly on older pianos that I've tried it.  Though I did have some success with combining the solution with heat from a hair dryer.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>If a 10%-30% water solution doesn't work, will it help to go to a higher percentage of water?  Or is it that the alcohol/water sizing method just won't work at all if it doesn't work at 30%?  What's the practical upper limit?</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>I will be working this week on a Baldwin vertical action with friction problems.  I thought I'd give alcohol/water a try first before repinning.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Is methanol significantly different than ethanol?  (For this purpose, of course. I can already hear the drinking jokes coming. <G>)</DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>