<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)"> <title>[CAUT] hammer thickness trimming jig</title> <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> Hello Jon:<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> It seems that you have taken offense at my remarks and those of William Monroe.  It certainly was not my intent, nor William’s (judging from the way he characterized his remarks).  I hope we can keep our further discussion directed only to the jig.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Not having used your jig (but having lots of experience tapering new and unmounted hammers on a table saw set up for 20 plus years), I can only look at your picture to arrive at my concerns.  <o:p></o:p> Since there is only the one picture, showing only part of the jig, perhaps we are missing something that is not shown.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> You offered this jig as a solution for tapering hammers mounted on shanks.  You have stated that the jig is safe – the fingers are “not anywhere near the blade”.  Looking at your picture, it looks like two of your fingers are at about the level of or slightly below the blade, and would travel into the line of the blade by the time the blade has reached the end of the tail.  There may be a depth stop out of our sight, but the jig and your fingers will travel at least that far.  Of course, they are not directly in line with the blade, but to the side of the blade.  .  And now I have just read that your fingers are 2 plus inches from the jig ( I assume you mean to the side of the blade).  Depth is hard to judge from the photograph,  but they appear to be much closer than the 2 inches.   <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> A comment that I would make is that, if your fingers are 2 inches from the blade, and nearly that to the shank, I don’t see how you can hold it with any degree of security and strength.  You certainly couldn’t oppose the blade ripping the hammer apart and flinging the parts (and hopefully not finger parts) across the room if you wobble or hog the blade too much.  I’m guessing you are able to get away with it because you are likely feathering the hammer head into the blade at a very slow rate, aided by the blade pushing the hammer to the side block and into the tail backstop.  Obviously, your technique is developed and consistent since this works for you.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> But what works for you may not work for someone else.  Each of us are free to put our own bodies to as much or as little risk as we want to in our own shops.  And each of us comes to this with varying degrees of hand – eye coordination, mechanical aptitude, natural smarts, common sense, etc.  You may be able to run faster and jump higher than me as a craftsman.  If that is so, congratulations.  But that is completely beside the point here – the issue here is how ANYONE who might use this set up can do so safely.  You wouldn’t want that anyone to get hurt would you?<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Since you are recommending this tool and further stating that it is safe, I think it is fair to ask you to describe in detail how you use this tool, and what you do to make the use of it as safe as possible.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I do believe that something similar to your jig could be made safer by adding a cam like hold down – you pull up on its handle and the rounded portion  rotates in an increasing arc, pressing down on the tail of the hammer to secure it and keep your hands far away from the blade.  I actually built a  jig years ago that did this so that I could taper a set of hung hammers.  It was very secure and safe, and worked well, but has disappeared into the catacombs of my shop.   It wasn’t my idea though, and I wish I could remember whose idea it was.  If I can find it, I’ll share it.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> My safety model still is:  Would I let an employee use it?<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Respectfully,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Will Truitt<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p>  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jon Page Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 8:03 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: [CAUT] hammer thickness trimming jig<o:p></o:p> </div> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> It worked for me in a way, but though my hammers looked<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> OK, it was VERY challenging to get any consistency.  More importantly, my<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> fingers were millimeters from the blade on many occasions trying to get as<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> much of an even taper as possible.  Unsafe at best.<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> Your jig wasn't right and your method was flawed. I've used this jig scores of times<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> without incident. A poor craftsman blames his tools.<o:p></o:p> </div> <pre>-- <o:p></o:p></pre> <div> Regards, Jon Page<o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </body> </html>