<HTML><HEAD> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3395" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Hi, Terence:</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>I've done this job many times.  There are more ways than one to do this, but here's what I've been doing.  Put your action in a cradle, then:</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>1) Remove the hammer rest rail.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>2) Remove the bridle straps.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>3) Most Yamaha consoles have flange plates, so you can leave the flanges on the rail.  Loosen the flange screw and remove the hammer butts/hammers.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>4) Use a thin saw blade to scrape out the silk cord from the slots in the flange.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>5) Use a 5/8" dowel and wrap your new cord (recommended "spiderwire" ) fishing line around it, then slice all the loops at once with a razor blade.  The diameter of the rod makes the loops uniform size.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>6) Use your glue of choice to secure one end of the loop to the flange slot.  Go back and glue the other side.  I've used CA gel glue, using an accelerator.  Sets up fast, but use care it doesn't gum up the flange bushing or leave buildup on the flange surface that will interfere with the butt when you reassemble it.  I've also used pvc-e glue.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>7) Reassemble the butts/hammers, bridle tapes, rest rail.  Done.  I'd estimate 4-6 hours.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Play some music or books-on-tape while you do a tedious, boring job.  Have fun.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Paul McCloud</FONT></DIV> <DIV>    </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV>Paul McCloud</DIV> <DIV>Service Technician for PianoSD.com</DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.pianoservsd.com">www.pianoservsd.com</A> </DIV> <DIV>Created with free BlueVoda software:</DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9">http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9</A></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV></DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=innuuuu@yahoo.com href="mailto:innuuuu@yahoo.com">Terence Miller</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech list</A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 08/30/2008 11:38:27 AM </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Schwander return spring loops</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2> <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0> <TBODY> <TR> <TD vAlign=top>Dear List<BR><BR>I am grateful in advance for whomever points me to the most efficient procedure for replacing these cord-loops in a mid-80s Yamaha console.<BR><BR>Most all of the cords have failed not at the spring but at one side of the flange or the other where the cord begins its life as a loop.<BR><BR>thank you<BR><BR>Terry Miller<BR>Napa, CA<BR><BR><BR>Oh,<BR><BR>take the rest of the day off!<BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>