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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hii Wim,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I buy them by the 100's from Yamaha. The time saved
and not having to repin over-ride the cost. Remember to cost out the job the way
you want to do the job, which is not always the cheapest. Most Yami P202
ond older consoles, as well as older Schwander actions need this job. I don't
think the Schwander flanges are that available, so the string thread job must be
done.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Carlos K. Ralon, RPT</FONT></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=wimblees@aol.com href="mailto:wimblees@aol.com">Willem Blees</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pmc033@earthlink.net
href="mailto:pmc033@earthlink.net">pmc033@earthlink.net</A> ; <A
title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:03
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Schwander return spring
loops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><WBR>I haven't had to do this yet, but I do have a couple of
pianos that are ready to have new cords put on. I have thought about replacing
the cords, but with it taking 4 - 6 hours, wouldn't it be "easier" to put on
new flanges, and travel the hammers?<BR><BR>
<DIV style="CLEAR: both">Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT<BR>Piano
Tuner/Technician<BR>Honolulu, HI<BR>808-349-2943<BR><A
href="http://www.bleespiano.com">www.bleespiano.com</A><BR>Author of <BR>The
Business of Piano Tuning<BR>available from Potter
Press<BR>www.pianotuning.com</DIV><BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From:
Paul McCloud <pmc033@earthlink.net><BR>To: innuuuu@yahoo.com, Pianotech
List <pianotech@ptg.org><BR>Sent: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 9:05 am<BR>Subject:
RE: Schwander return spring loops<BR><BR>
<DIV id=AOLMsgPart_2_4d991e3f-93ae-466d-b834-4c7752d83dbb>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Hi, Terence:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>I've done this
job many times. There are more ways than one to do this, but here's what
I've been doing. Put your action in a cradle, then:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>1) Remove the
hammer rest rail.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>2) Remove the
bridle straps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>3) Most Yamaha
consoles have flange plates, so you can leave the flanges on the rail.
Loosen the flange screw and remove the hammer butts/hammers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>4) Use a thin
saw blade to scrape out the silk cord from the slots in the
flange.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>5) Use a 5/8"
dowel and wrap your new cord (recommended "spiderwire" ) fishing line around
it, then slice all the loops at once with a razor blade. The diameter of
the rod makes the loops uniform size.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>6) Use your
glue of choice to secure one end of the loop to the flange slot. Go back
and glue the other side. I've used CA gel glue, using an
accelerator. Sets up fast, but use care it doesn't gum up the flange
bushing or leave buildup on the flange surface that will interfere with the
butt when you reassemble it. I've also used pvc-e glue.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>7) Reassemble
the butts/hammers, bridle tapes, rest rail. Done. I'd estimate 4-6
hours.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Play some music
or books-on-tape while you do a tedious, boring job. Have
fun.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> <FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Paul
McCloud</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Paul McCloud</DIV>
<DIV>Service Technician for PianoSD.com</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.pianoservsd.com/"
target=_blank>www.pianoservsd.com</A> </DIV>
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<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=innuuuu@yahoo.com href="mailto:innuuuu@yahoo.com">Terence
Miller</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech list</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 08/30/2008 11:38:27 AM </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Schwander return spring
loops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2>
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<TR>
<TD vAlign=top>Dear List<BR><BR>I am grateful in advance for whomever
points me to the most efficient procedure for replacing these
cord-loops in a mid-80s Yamaha console.<BR><BR>Most all of the cords
have failed not at the spring but at one side of the flange or the
other where the cord begins its life as a loop.<BR><BR>thank
you<BR><BR>Terry Miller<BR>Napa, CA<BR><BR><BR>Oh,<BR><BR>take the
rest of the day
off!<BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><!-- end of AOLMsgPart_2_4d991e3f-93ae-466d-b834-4c7752d83dbb -->
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