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<DIV>Technically, yes, if wire is going to break, it's going to break; so just
yanking it up (w/lube and a slight drop first, as others have said) is usually
going to be just fine. However, from a business relations point of view, there
needs to be a solid plan in place in case there <U>is</U> breakage. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It's essential to start with a "big picture" chat with the client
to make him/her/them partners in this. I tell them that the neglected
maintenance has saved money but allowed the risk to accumulate; and that
while in most cases there is no problem, in a small percentage of cases there is
breakage. If there is, will we want to </DIV>
<DIV>1) restring,</DIV>
<DIV>2) stop tuning when the 2nd wire breaks, replace broken, tune back
down,</DIV>
<DIV>3) skip the pitch raise, or</DIV>
<DIV>4) walk away with just a service call fee.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>They also need an assessment of the rest of the piano before deciding how
much to risk on the strings.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>Even if the client opts out of a pitch raise entirely, a
neglected piano will have a higher risk factor. In addition to the positives of
a piano at proper pitch, I discuss the negative possibility of plate breakage or
case separation, but try to put it in its proper perspective (I've never had a
plate break while tuning [or immediately after], but I know others have). </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>All but #4 are going to cost more than the price of a tuning. If one just
starts whanging away and stuff does break, it looks like reckless abandon to the
client, who will most likely freak. A properly prepared client will
not.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bob Davis</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/25/2008 2:56:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes:</DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=3>Like others have said, pull it up to pitch and get on with
it. Chances are strings will not break. One time when stripping down a 100+ yo
Everett grand I experimented with the strings to see how high I could
pull the strings before breaking. Most broke when pulled 200 - 300 cents
sharp!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:KeyKat88@aol.com
href="mailto:KeyKat88@aol.com">KeyKat88@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=mailto:pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 23, 2008 4:30
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Old Ivers and Pond to pitch
raise or not to...</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>Greetings,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> A church got a
free Ivers and Pond grand piano given to them. Serial 52183. What is the mfg
date? It is 100 cents flat. Upon examination of the bridges, it looks
as if some tech shellacked or poly clear coated the <EM>entire bridge
</EM>along with the sound board. I mean the clear coat (whatever it is)(its
super glossy) is over all the bearing surfaces as well as down over the
sides of the bridges and the sound board as well. The bridges were actually
"saved" from further splitting, because there are very slight splits
near the bridge pins, but they are all coated.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> The pinblock is like
new. I am almost sure it is a replacement. My gut feeling is
not to pitch raise this one, just because of its estimated age. The
strings would probably withstand it but I dunno...any suggestions?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance,</DIV>
<DIV>Julia Gottshall</DIV>
<DIV>Reading, PA</DIV></FONT><BR><BR><BR>
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