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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Goose Juice!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=david@davidtrasoff.com href="mailto:david@davidtrasoff.com">David
Trasoff</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 11, 2008 12:14
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> 1890s Everett damper
flanges</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>This piano is a ~1895 Everett grand, about 6'; old, heavy
woodwork. Customer bought the piano from an antique dealer - seems to have
been partially rebuilt w/ new strings, pins, hammers. But the dampers didn't
work - the damper lift flanges were mostly frozen up, very slow. Why didn't
they take care of that as well, I wondered as I took the job.
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Now I have a better idea of why. After disassembling the damper lift tray
and mechanism, a major jigsaw puzzle already, I now see the problem. The
damper flanges are not screwed to the damper rail - they are hot-glued in
place, without screws, and with a second strip of wood on top of the flange,
also glued in place. I can post pictures if the description is not clear. Oh,
and while the flanges in the tenor section are at 90 degrees to the rail, the
bass and treble sections are angled. There's no way I can see to get at the
frozen flanges without breaking apart this nice glued-up arrangement, and in
the process losing all idea of the precise placement and angle of the flanges
on the rail.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Does anyone have experience dealing with this type of damper rail
arrangement? The flanges are badly frozen up - I got one off and it's
full of verdigris and corrosion. They have to be re-pinned. How do I get to
the flanges, get them off and back on the rail, and avoid creating a nightmare
of misaligned flanges? One thought is to drill guide holes through that top
strip of wood and through the flange into the rail, so that I can at least
locate the flange, and then essentially convert them to screwed in flanges
when I'm done re-pinning. That still leaves reproducing the
angle... </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Suggestions?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>David Trasoff </DIV><BR><BR>
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<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px">---</DIV>
<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px">David Trasoff</DIV>
<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px">Professional Piano Service</DIV>
<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px">4130 Verdugo View Drive</DIV>
<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px">Los Angeles, CA 90065</DIV>
<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px">Tel: 323-255-7783</DIV>
<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px">Fax: 323-313-1519</DIV>
<DIV style="MARGIN: 0px"><A
href="mailto:david@professionalpianoservice.com">david@professionalpianoservice.com</A></DIV>
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