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<FONT face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><FONT face="Comic Sans MS, sans-serif"> Hi Gene<br>
One protocol that may help is to fit the blocks & tray in the cavity temporarily & do a mock up of a few lever heights based on key lift & then extrapolate where the tray will actually sit in its rotation. The higher up in its rotation the less the back side protudes out the back near the belly rail... the less sawdust you make... Capishe? or no<br>
Dale</FONT><br>
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<div><FONT face=Arial size=2>With the pivot blocks installed on the tray outside of the action cavity, draw a line on the tray that connects the back of each pivot block. Remove this material and recheck that the tray does not rub against the bellyrail as the tray rotates. I cut the excess material off on my tablesaw using a taper jig but you can also use any number of other methods, bandsaw, power plane etc. This is quite common also with the Stwy O.</FONT></div>
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<div>Jude Reveley, RPT<br>
Absolute Piano Restoration, LLC<br>
Lowell, Massachusetts<br>
(978) 323-4545</div>
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<div><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jude,</FONT></div>
<div><FONT face=Arial size=2>The time to do this I suppose is after the new pivot pins have been installed so that I can run the tray through it's true rotation? It seems to me that removing a bit more material than that defined by a straight line across the rear of the pivot blocks will be required and some experimenting is required to assure the thing is not bumping the belly rail?</FONT></div>
<div><FONT face=Arial size=2>I will probably use a hand planer.</FONT></div>
<div><FONT face=Arial size=2>Gene</FONT></div>
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