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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Shawn-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Those keytops are hard, and take longer to file
than other brands, but it's worth it for the result.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Imagine for a moment what it will cost you if you
overcut just one of the keytops, and you will se the value of patience in this
job.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Glue some Tri-X sandpaper onto 1/4 inch plywood
paddles, about 3 inches wide. Make sure the paper is glued down tight and
flat. Make sure it comes right to the edge of the wood, and doesn't
overlap the edge.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Make100 grit for fast cutting and 200 grit for
finishing. The broad, flat paddles will prevent gouging and curving in on the
sides, which can happen with a narrow file.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Use a bench vise to hold the key. Glue action cloth
to the vise jaw so it doesn't scratch the keytops.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Clamp the key in the vise, with the keytop against
the jaw and the side you're filing almost flush with the tops of the jaws. Hold
the file almost parallel to the side of the key. Make 2 or 3 passes and check
your progress. Soon you'll be able to feel the moment when the paddle is just
starting to scrape the wood.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Dealing with the notch is hard to describe in
writing. After filing, I often use a very sharp knife to trim the corner of the
notch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>(Don't use a router. It's a very dangerous tool,
and you don't get a second chance.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ed Sutton</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=shawnbrock@fuse.net href="mailto:shawnbrock@fuse.net">Shawn Brock</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, October 29, 2008 12:51
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> trimming new keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>List,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>can anyone give me an idea for the most accurate
and least costly way of trimming new keytops? I have installed the
German one peace tops and fronts sold by Pianotek and now need to perform the
worse part of the job... Filing these is a time consuming
activity! So I'm thinking the obvious thing to do is cut the tops flush
with the side of the key and round off the edges and corners afterward.
I don't have a router and don't really want to get one, so how about a
Dremel? Would that work worth a darn? Any suggestions? I
have no plans of going into the keytop business but I have two other pianos
that need tops and I'm to cheap to send the work out. The way I see it
is I have the time so why not just keep that extra money I would spend to farm
the work out. Thanks as always!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Shawn Brock, RPT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>513-316-0563</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><A
href="http://www.shawnbrock.com">www.shawnbrock.com</A></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>