<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.5659" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Shawn~</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>What? You're having to file those Pianotek keytops? Send 'em back and get some that fit!  ;-)</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Ah, the problem we all struggle with - how to do common repetitive jobs without mortgaging the farm for expensive tooling.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Keytops can be a nightmare. A Dremel might work, if you have a lot of patience and a lot of money to keep buying replacement bits. Otherwise, it's too small, too underpowered, the small bits heat up too much, and it takes way too long, and the money you might have saved is quickly consumed in having to buy lots of those itty bitty bits in order to get through all 52 white keys. Also, you will still have to devise a fence or a fixture to use the dremel, and construct it.  </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>A hand file would probably still be faster, if you have the technique, and the elbow grease to use it.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>(You might as well get a router and router table and make a router jig.)</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>HOWEVER, you can also use a bandsaw with a fine toothed blade and a sliding table (see below) (What? You don't have a band saw? Oh, the things we take for granted...) Often it's faster to cut off excess with a router bit or saw blade rather than filing, which, as you have found, is tedious. (see below about router jigs and bandsaws).</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>The main problem with trying to file keytops flush with the wood keystick, and get a good result, cosmetically and otherwise, is that the wood underneath the keytops is softwood, and actually wears faster than the ivory or plastic tops. The sides of the keystick are exposed, so they do get worn over time, and they also shrink over the years, so that they are no longer square or straight, so unless you have a fairly young set of keys, filing new keytops flush with the sides of the keystick usually results in the keytop being narrower than original, and also results in wider, unsightly gaps between the keys, giving the appearance that the keys need orthodontal work.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>That said, the top <EM>should</EM> be flush with the wood keystick. If there is any overhang, it will feel funny to the pianist and they will complain (or decide not to buy the piano, or pay you for the recovering job).</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>The best hand tools to invest in to do keytops are a good mill file and a good padded vise (or a regular vise with cardboard or leather taped to the jaws, or those magnetic jaw rubber pads you can buy in woodworking supply catalogs). Lock the key in the vise and file away. Go easy at first, it's all too easy to remove too much keytop, and you can't put it back.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>A good technique is to keep putting the key back in the keyframe next to its neighbor at intervals while filing, to check whether you are removing too much material. It is very easy to get down flush with the key side and keep filing because it is not always easy to tell when you are flush or when you have gone too far. Putting the key back in the keyframe with the other keys shows you the final result, which you can't see when the individual key is out being filed, away from all the other keys. After you have done a few keys this way, you will have a better feel for how much filing is needed and will only have to check occasionally. The other thing that is difficult is to file the keytop straight, so that the sides are parallel with those of the neighboring keys.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>You may find that filing the keytop to where it should be leaves an overhang, where the keytop is still wider than the keystick. Sometimes in order to maintain those nice straight narrow spaces between the keys, you may actually have to build the sides of the keystick back up with sugar pine or spruce shims, or some type of wood filler, because the keysticks have gotten really worn. Often, if you look at the key from the front, you will see that the keyfront is no longer square, but narrower at the top, a trapezoid rather than a square. Previous recovering jobs may also have trimmed or filed down the key sides.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>The main problem with filing is that if you have a lot of material to remove, you get tired, and lose tend to lose patience, and keep hogging off material when you should be watching how close you're getting.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Bill Spurlock at <A href="http://www.spurlocktools.com/">Spurlock Specialty Tools</A> has designed some handy router table and drill press jigs for recovering keys and trimming new keytops, that he can provide you plans for, for a nominal fee. He claims that with these jigs you can do a complete set of keytops, including removal of old tops, in 3 1/2 hours. (Perhaps Bill can do this, but for me that's still a bit optimistic.) I have built the fixtures and they do work fairly well (watch your fingers, though). The main advantage of having machines is that you don't get so tired and can do a better job; also, if used properly, the machines can provide more precision. The weakness of this, and other router jigs is that they reference off the key side, so you have to have some skill and technique and know where the jig cannot be trusted. If the side of the keystick isn't straight, or if it has recesses for lead weights that the router bit guide bearing can inadvertantly dip into, good-bye straight sides. In such a case you have to find ways to compensate for the weaknesses of the fixture. These fixtures are good for hogging off excess material and cutting down the amount of hand filing you have to do, but you still have to do quite a bit of finish filing by hand. Techs who are adept at filing often simply choose to do it all by hand rather than having to futz with fixture set-up and adjustment, which eats up time.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>If you have a band saw that is finely aligned, with a fairly fine toothed blade (say 14 tpi or more) you can make a sliding table for the bandsaw to hog off the excess that would otherwise take you a long time to do by hand if you don't happen to have the stamina of John Henry. The sliding table keeps the tops of the keys from getting scratched and helps cut a straight line, and also helps support the keytop so it doesn't chip. This works well for both ivory and and plastic. If you find the keytop is chipping, either you need a finer blade or your bandsaw needs aligning. This is especially helpful for cutting off excess in the sharp notches. (See photos below) Like I say, even doing this, you still have to count on doing some clean up filing. Don't have a bandsaw? Find a friend who does. He can probably also make you a sliding table, if he doesn't already have one. You may have to buy the fine toothed blade, but that's a small price to pay. Go slow, and take your time. Don't rush.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:134165023@29102008-2C36" align=baseline border=0></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:134165023@29102008-2C3D" align=baseline border=0></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>The bright side of all this is that if you learn how to do keytops well, you often can do a better or more meticulous job than the supply houses or dedicated keytop recovering shops, that is, if you take the time to do a good job.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Hope this helps.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>~Ken Bean</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=134165023-29102008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2> <DIV align=left> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007>PianoFinders</SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007><A title=http://www.pianofinders.com href="http://www.pianofinders.com/">www.pianofinders.com</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007>e-mail: <A title=mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com href="mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com">kenbean@pianofinders.com</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007></SPAN></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=533361603-16112007><EM>Connecting Pianos and People</EM></SPAN></FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR> <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left> <HR tabIndex=-1> <FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> David's Email [mailto:ilvey@sbcglobal.net] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, October 29, 2008 10:36 AM<BR><B>To:</B> Pianotech<BR><B>Subject:</B> keytop trimming<BR></FONT><BR></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Archives...</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>List,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>can anyone give me an idea for the most accurate and least costly way of trimming new keytops?  I have installed the German one peace tops and fronts sold by Pianotek and now need to perform the worse part of the job...  Filing these is a time consuming activity!  So I'm thinking the obvious thing to do is cut the tops flush with the side of the key and round off the edges and corners afterward.  I don't have a router and don't really want to get one, so how about a Dremel?  Would that work worth a darn?  Any suggestions?  I have no plans of going into the keytop business but I have two other pianos that need tops and I'm to cheap to send the work out.  The way I see it is I have the time so why not just keep that extra money I would spend to farm the work out.  Thanks as always!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Shawn Brock, RPT</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>513-316-0563</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><A href="http://www.shawnbrock.com/">www.shawnbrock.com</A></FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>