Before that, check to see that there aren't shims glued or stuck to the bottom of the cheek blocks. If there are. remove them and see if that brings it down enough. Of course you'll want to watch and make sure you still have enough clearance between the fallboard and the key tops.<div>
<br></div><div>William R. Monroe</div><div><br></div><div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 2:26 PM, John Formsma <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:formsma@gmail.com">formsma@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;"><div><div></div><div class="h5"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 12:01 PM, Daniel Carlton <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:carltonpiano@sbcglobal.net" target="_blank">carltonpiano@sbcglobal.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Hi guys<br>
<br>
Working on a Kawai GE-1, bedding the keyframe. There are about 2-3 mms between the keyframe guide pin and the plastic keyblock plate, so there's definitely knocking and I can lift the frame about 2-3 mms with the blocks screwed in.<br>
<br>
I can't lower the plate and I don't want to bend the pin.<br>
<br>
Am I overlooking something?<br>
<font color="#888888"><br>
Daniel<br>
</font></blockquote></div><br></div></div>I'm certainly no an expert on this -- at all. However, I recently had what sounds like your situation. Shimmed up the front of the stack. The stack was causing the keyframe to twist, pulling the treble side up. It helped that I had read about this on Pianotech and happened to remember it. Thanks to Ed Foote, as I recall.<br clear="all">
<br>-- <br><font color="#888888">JF<br>
</font></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>
</div>