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<font face="Arial">Thanks for your responses folks.<br>
<br>
Alan, you say<br>
<blockquote type="cite"><br>
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<div><strong><font face="Arial" size="2">David, </font></strong></div>
<div><strong><font face="Arial" size="2">Did you remove the
hammers and place them in groups in a vise to dress the
hammers, or do them in situ?</font></strong></div>
<div><strong><font face="Arial" size="2">On this 1883
Bechstein I used French chalk to whiten the hammer
surfaces and then vigorous brushing with a nailbrush.</font></strong></div>
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</blockquote>
I did them in situ. I've never removed a sert of hammers just for
filing. <br>
In what form was the french chalk you used? One of the little
rectangular-profile sticks?<br>
<br>
I think your screwdriver idea is great! It exactly solves what I
observed to be the problems with the mini-drill tool. That is,
lack of torque means that 1) it's hard to keep a constant speed
and 2) you can only use a wheel of small diameter. The power
screwdriver/sandbobbin approach solves both problems! A power
screwdriver is bound to have MUCH more torque than the mini
drill. Can I ask what glue you use to stick the sandpaper to the
bobbin?<br>
<br>
Also, you mention interestingly that you use the same setup but
with steel wool on the bobbin, to revive strings. How do you
attach the steel wool?<br>
<br>
Joe, thanks for your comments
<blockquote type="cite">In the hand-filed photo, I was taught to
start the filing further towards the tail than you did; I start
at least before the widest point, and often before or at the
staple. The reason for this is that if you start after the
widest point (if you start closer to the crown), you are
effectively increasing the hammer radius at the crown, thus
flattening the hammer crown. This is illustrated by the
exaggerated photo below. </blockquote>
I appreciate exactly what you mean. I do try to keep a proper
profile, though I've never started as far back as the staple. The
idea of taking off a layer or "skin" of felt all the way round
would certainly solve the problem of the grubbiness on the upper
surface. Mind you, there is the aspect of time and cost, related
to the quality of the piano. In the particular example I sent,
and for that particular section of hammers, the filing does start
nearer the nose the I usually would, but for those hammers it kept
the profile OK. I love the idea of frantically trying to glue
back on excess removed felt! I can't guess the brand of piano, by
the way!<br>
<br>
John Ross, I do like the idea of using the sand blaster with glass
beads. I've been thinking for a while about a compressor. What
else do you use the setup for, in addition to cleaning actions?<br>
<br>
Jack, you say
<blockquote type="cite">
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">I
have a special paddle I use, it is a
piece of dragon skin I glued onto a paddle. It takes the
felt off very quickly.
I then go on to finer grits with various paddles</span></font></p>
<font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span style="font-size:
10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">and sandpaper strips
finishing off with
600 grit.</span></font></blockquote>
Do you start right back at the staple, and take off a layer of
felt all the way round, as Joe recommends? It's really the
"cleaning" aspect that I was asking about. I wasn't familiar with
dragon skin, so looked it up. Interesting. Where do you obtain it?<br>
<br>
Thanks again folks.<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
<br>
David Boyce<br>
<br>
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