<HTML style="FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif; FONT-SIZE: x-small"><HEAD> <META content="text/html; charset=windows-1251" http-equiv=Content-Type> <META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 8.00.6001.19019"></HEAD> <BODY> <P> <DIV>JD asked: " I have a grand fall of solid walnut veneered on the outside with burl <DIV><FONT size=+0>> walnut and on the face with pearwood (polished black). There is an </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> almost invisible crack running about 10 inches in from the bass end </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> about an inch in from the front curve but the crack goes only about </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> 2/3 of the way through the walnut substrate so that the name side is </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> not affected.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> If I apply lightish pressure I can open the crack to about 1/2 </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> millimetre. If I opened it wider there is a risk it would go through </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> to the name side. This opening is not wide enough to work hot glue </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> right into the crack even with a hot feeler gauge and I'm considering </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> the possibility of using CA glue. People who have used thin </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> modellers' CA glue for tightening wrestpins talk of it 'wicking' in, </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> and I am wondering if it would be suitable for this repair and wick </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> down deep into the crack, which i would then clamp tight for a day or </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> two.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> I'd be glad to hear from people with experience of this stuff whether </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> that sounds like a good solution for this repair."</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>> JD,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>I would strongly suggest you use the proper substance. <G> I would suggest using Clear Epoxy. A way to get epoxy to "wick" like CA, is to heat the area and use a heat gun/hairdryer to keep it that way, while using an artist's pallette knife to work the epoxy into the crack. Once you have gotten penetration deep into the crack, I'd suggest using a ratchet strap for a clamp. Light clamping is all that is needed, as epoxy tends to fill voids. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Leave in clamp for the appropriate "set time". Oh, clean up the excess epoxy with a rag dampened with lacquer thinner. That should do the trick. If the finish of the key "fall" is lacquer, then you will best remove the most of the excess epoxy with a dry cotton rag. Light "scraping" with a hardwood scraper after set up should remove the excess "film" of epoxy afterwards.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Regards,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Joe</FONT></DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.</DIV> <DIV>Captain of the Tool Police</DIV> <DIV>Squares R I</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <P></P></BODY></HTML>