<div style="font-family:helvetica,arial;font-size:10pt;color:black"> JD writes: <div id="AOLMsgPart_0_aaa90969-16e5-400c-aa61-9527b4b18a7d" style="margin: 0px;font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif;font-size: 12px;color: #000;background-color: #fff;"> <pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt> >>I have a grand fall of solid walnut veneered on the outside with burl walnut and on the face with pearwood (polished black). There is an almost invisible crack running about 10 inches in from the bass end I'm considering the possibility of using CA glue. People who have used thin modellers' CA glue for tightening wrestpins talk of it 'wicking' in, and I am wondering if it would be suitable for this repair and wick down deep into the crack, which i would then clamp tight for a day or two.<<</tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt> </tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt> The water thin CA will wick into everything porous, often traveling with the grain, ( I had to use it to repair</tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>a broken tender on a Steinway, and one drop at the bottom ended up traveling half way up the length of the jack). </tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>So, it is possible that you will created a real mess along the seam of the crack. I don't like to use CA for adhesion </tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>on porous wood. It really works great with ebony or rosewood, but pine, not so much. </tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>There is also the strong possibility of having a glue starved joint, which will be very weak. </tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>Is this the sort of thing that might best be left alone?</tt></pre><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>Regards, </tt></pre> </div>  </div>