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<DIV>Marty,</DIV>
<DIV>Have you checked the sostenuto rod? sometimes it's so
close to the tabs that even without pressing the
pedal the tabs brush against it when the dampers are on their way down
and it keeps them hanging. I encountered a situation like
that yesterday. I bent the rod outward a little and that solved the
problem. That piano is constantly subjected to big temperature changes, so
I think that when it gets hot the brass rod expands and has to bow one way or
the other. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Jean-Luc Matton, RPT</DIV>
<DIV>Albuquerque NM</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 6/5/2011 4:35:54 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
tompiano@bellsouth.net writes:</DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Marty</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I would second Barbara Richmond's suggestion.
However I would go a step further.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>First of all,are you 100% certain the friction is
in the damper guide rail bushings. Make sure that the problem is not in the
underlever pinning. </FONT><FONT size=2 face=Arial>But if it is in the guide
rail bushings, I would shoot for stabilizing the felt</FONT><FONT size=2 face=Arial>. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Use the old and true method of
treating stubborn center pin bushings in the action. Mix 50%
water/50% denatured alcohol and with an eye-dropper or
hypo-oilier, putting several drops in the damper guide bushing. Initially
the solution will swell the bushing, but hours later the bushing will return
to it's original size. The difference is that the felt will be in a more
stabilized condition. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Once treated with the solution, I would then
follow up with the Protek Prolube and you'll have a very long lasting
repair. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Tom Servinsky</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:piano57@comcast.net href="mailto:piano57@comcast.net">Barbara Richmond</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=mailto:pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, June 04, 2011 9:09
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [pianotech] Suggestions
for sticking dampers</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Perhaps
some material needs to be removed. I've had to do this. I took a
rat tail file and twirled it lightly in the guide bushing cloth and removed
a small amount of material (threads). One must be careful--it's
possible to grab the whole bushing! Then I took a spare damper wire,
heated it and ironed the hole. Next I treated the cloth with
Protek. I had thought of using VS Profelt, but I didn't
want to go through the swelling and shrinking thing and having to drive 40
miles to come back and check to see if everything was working. BTW,
it's possible to listen for the amount of friction in damper guide
rails--well, you can hear it in a quiet environment. Have a
listen... <BR><BR>Barbara Richmond, RPT<BR>near Peoria,
Illinois<BR><BR>----- Original Message -----<BR>From: "martin cipolla"
<pianodoctor@msn.com><BR>To: pianotech@ptg.org<BR>Sent: Saturday, June
4, 2011 7:07:07 PM<BR>Subject: [pianotech] Suggestions for sticking
dampers<BR><BR>
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The Piano is a Steinway M. Perhaps 40 years old. Sticking
dampers are a reoccurring problem. I have eased the damper
holes,<BR>and used 0000 steel wool on the damper wires and still the dampers
stick with any major weather change. For some reason the<BR>customer
is not interested in a Damp Chaser being put on the instrument. I can
use some suggestions on a fix that would be<BR>longer lasting. HELP
!!!<BR><BR>MARTY<BR></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>