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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Sorry for the confusion. We Tightened only the
plate bolts.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>None of the nose.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>My question about the nose bolts stems from earlier
discussions on how the board flexes while the tension is let down</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Thanks for the responses.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=a440a@aol.com href="mailto:a440a@aol.com">Ed Foote</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, July 02, 2011 7:01
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [pianotech] SnS rim
screws</DIV>
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<DIV>Joe writes: <BR>>>I remember tightening the plate bolts ( or
trying ) with a</DIV>
<DIV>small 6 inch crescent wrench. All bolts would not budge, so I
thought every thing was fine. </DIV>
<DIV> Cut to the chase:</DIV>
<DIV>We tightened the bolts with a socket. Crown is back in the mid
section where it was flat.</DIV>
<DIV>Sustain 8 seconds!</DIV>
<DIV> Quick questions</DIV>
<DIV>The bolts are a 3/4" head and the low bass 1/16" larger</DIV>
<DIV>How tight can I go.</DIV>
<DIV> Can the tenor and treble nose bolts be adjusted up to gain more
crown? They are the style that has a tuning hammer shape. The bass has a cover
cap</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Greetings, </DIV>
<DIV> First, you mention plate bolts, then seem to refer to
the nose bolts, while including "all" bolts. The rim bolts should not
change the crown, so I am assuming you are lowering the nose bolts. I am
sure you are aware that you are just bending the plate downward. How tight can
you go? Until you hear a crack and have broken the plate. Without
having installed the plate, and knowing what the preloaded flex is on the
plate, I would be very leery of pulling it down with the nose bolts/caps.
The bass, with a cover cap, will not get you much gain in terms of
bearing, and I would advise against changing it. </DIV>
<DIV> There are things I have done to analyze a plate under
tension, like putting a dial indicator on the plate, and begin carefully
undoing the large nut on a nearby nose bolt. If nothing changes, the
plate is either neutral or being held up by the bolt. Loosen the other
nut and see if it stays the same. You may find that the plate is
stressed upwards, held up by the shoulders on the nose bolts. I would be more
serene lowering a plate such as that, than wanting to lower one that rises as
soon as the nuts are loosened. </DIV>
<DIV> There is an amazing amount of flex that can be had on most
plates, but not knowing where the starting point is is like running in the
dark. </DIV>
<DIV>Regards, </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Ed Foote </DIV></FONT>
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