<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">I agree with Mike. I follow the string angle rather than duplicate the hammer angle. If you're not comfortable doing that, go half way in between. You can't go wrong doing that. I find the easiest way to measure, is to follow the groves in the hammers, they will show you the exact angle the hammer is hitting the string. I also agree with Mikes on the max angles, unless the hammers are already bored at a steeper angle to match the strings and it works. Keep in mind, you could have a problem boring through the back outside of the molding over 12º after you taper the hammer. <div><br></div><div>I'll post a photo of my setup to measure the hammer angle when I get to the shop later today. I just glued up a set yesterday that some tooner did before me (I'm sure he wasn't an RPT :-). Wrong hammer angle, wrong striking point, hammers and tails in and out, reduced the hell out of the hammer shanks, etc, etc, etc. <br><div><br><div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-size: medium; "><div>Al -</div><div>High Point, NC</div><div><br></div></span><br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
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<br><div><div>On Sep 2, 2011, at 11:07 PM, Mike Spalding wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><div>Steven,<br><br>I've not done a C7, so I can't confirm or deny the 9 degrees. For comparison, most Steinway grands are less than that... I always measure the string angles, and compare them to the hammer angles, also observe the string grooves in the hammers, as a verification. If the hammer angle isn't equal to the string angle, then the difference should show up as string grooves not parallel to the hammers. Then you've got to decide whether to duplicate the original hammers, or get closer to parallel to the strings...My goal is to get the hammers as close to parallel to the strings as possible, without getting such a large angle that they interfere with each other. Most pianos that means a max angle of 10 to 12 degrees. But I'm working on a Schiedmayer grand right now where the top bass hammer angle is 15 degrees, and the hammers are spaced widely enough that it's not a problem.<br><br>Mike<br><br>On 9/2/2011 9:43 PM, Steven Hopp wrote:<br><blockquote type="cite">Hello,<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">I have begun to do my own hammer work. I am challenged at this point by determining bore angles from the original hammers.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">I am boring for a Yamaha C-7 and have found the bass angle to be 9 degrees.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Does this seem correct?<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Also, if anyone has the angles for this piano I would appreciate it so I can practice reading my angle guide knowing what I should be expecting.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">I am sure that these are the original hammers.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Any help is greatly appreciated.<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Thanks,<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Steven Hopp<br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite">Midland, TX<br></blockquote><br><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div></body></html>