<div>C'mon Joe, don't you know that parts that have been corroded with salt air can only be cleaned using a sponge taken from the sea within 2 miles of the occurrence of the corrosion? And then follow that up with a nice sea cucumber masque and we're good to go. ;-]</div> <div><br></div>Anyone ever heard of a deburring wheel? They are marvelous for removing awful amounts of corrosion very quickly. But use judiciously, they are on the aggressive side.<div><br></div><div><a href="http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/polishwheel.php">http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/polishwheel.php</a></div> <div><br></div><div>William R. Monroe</div><div><br></div><div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 3:46 PM, Joseph Garrett <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">joegarrett@earthlink.net</a>></span> wrote:<br> <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">Wim said: "The pressure bars and screws are rusty and corroded, and because<br> the rust and corrosion was caused by salt air, they can't be cleaned."<br> <br> Wim,<br> I don't understand why they "..can't be cleaned"? Over the years, I've had<br> to make some pretty nasty metal look presentable. There are several ways to<br> do this. 1. Replate. (I suspect that there is no such thing as a metal<br> plater on the Islands?) 2. Wire brush all the nasty stuff off and buff to a<br> high polish. At that point, you have the option of Bluing or simply<br> spraying with lacquer. There ya have it. What ever you do, it'll certainly<br> look better than rust and crud, imo. BTW, if you coat the screws with clear<br> polyester they will be less susceptable to corrosion than any other coating<br> I've found.<br> Joe<br> <br> <br> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<br> Captain of the Tool Police<br> Squares R I<br> <br> </blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div> </div>