<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:dt="uuid:C2F41010-65B3-11d1-A29F-00AA00C14882" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta name="Microsoft Theme 2.00" content="sumipntg 111"><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style></style></head><body bgcolor=white background="cid:image001.jpg@01CC956B.26FD8550" lang=EN-US link="#660099" vlink="#993366">Drill the 13/32 first, the 9/16 (I actually use a 1/2) second (use a regular extra long bit not a spade bit), and a 7/8 forstner bit on an extension last. You'll have to make a centering guide for the forstner bit. If you drill the smaller hole first the second hole will self center with a regular bit. I'll send a photo later.<p>David Love<br/>www.davidlovepianos.com<br/>(sent from bb)</p><hr/><div><b>From: </b> "Encore Pianos" <encorepianos@metrocast.net> </div><div><b>Sender: </b> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org </div><div><b>Date: </b>Fri, 28 Oct 2011 13:00:56 -0400</div><div><b>To: </b><pianotech@ptg.org></div><div><b>ReplyTo: </b> pianotech@ptg.org </div><div><b>Subject: </b>[pianotech] WNG plate bolt installation</div><div><br/></div><img src="cid:image001.jpg@01CC956B.26FD8550" v:src="cid:image001.jpg@01CC956B.26FD8550" v:shapes="_x0000_Mail" width=0 height=0 class=shape style='display:none;width:0;height:0'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Hi:<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>This is addressed to those of you who have been using the Wessell, Nickel, & Gross Perimeter Bolts. I am trying to refine my system for installing them, and I find the recommended WNG installation system leaves much to be desired As you know, we are required to drill 3 holes. WNG recommends drilling the first hole with a 7/8’ spade bit to a depth of about Ľ”, the second with a 9/16” spade bit to a depth of about 1 ˝”, and the third with a 13/32” aircraft or electricians drill to a depth of about 4 1/8”. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I think the spade bit drills are terrible, they chew up the wood and don’t leave a clean hole, and they do not center very well on top of that. Nor have I found that the electricians long drill centers well either. Basically getting all three holes to center consistently is a crap shoot. There has to be a better way. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Of course, the rim is in the way. That limits our options considerably as far as what other tools we might use. The drill bits we use must either be long enough to have the drill work above the rim top, or we have drill extensions with the proper bits set in them that will allow the same. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Here is the plan of attack I am contemplating:<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I made a drill guide out of a block of wood that is 3 ˝” tall by 7” long x 1 ˝” deep. I drilled a 5/8” hole off centered, and same with a 13/32” hole . The block is mounted on two 3” feet that raise the block and allow you to see the drill bits going into the holes, and leaves room for the movement of the bits. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>The 5/8” hole serves as a guide for a 3/8” shank forstner bit extension that is 10” long x 5/8” in diameter, which I got from Woodcraft.com Most Forstner bits have a 3/8” shank, and that size is hard to come by at a hardware store, not to mention that the Irwin drill extensions we commonly see are a WCPOS and not worth buying. I paid $35.00 for my Wood River extension. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>What I want to do is use 3 Forstner bit sizes to drill my holes – 7/8” for #1 hole, 9/16” for #2, and 3/8” for the final hole. I can mount all three in my Forstner extension, and use it in my guide to keep everything at 90 degrees. The 3/8” forstner bit is too small for the threads of the WNG bolt, so I will chase that last hole with my 13/32” aircraft drill. The .031 difference in size between the hole and the drill should be small enough to allow it to center well in the hole. Indeed, the 3/8” hole does not need to go fully to the bottom, only deep enough to serve as a sufficient guide to the 13/32 hole that will then take it to full depth. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>That is how I believe I can get good and consistent results. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I would love to hear others input on this. If you have a better way, I am all ears.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Will Truitt<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>