<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Since the hole is not a critical size, I would just use a piece of piano wire.<div>The end of a bass string is ideal, just cut it at a 45 degree angle.</div><div>That should make the hole.</div><div>Very little chance of breakage, and if it does, just make another one.</div><div>If you do the treatment when the piano is at it's driest, there may be enough shrinkage to allow the C/A to work without drilling.</div><div>Try one, then remove the pin and see how far the C/A has penetrated.</div><div>John Ross</div><div>Windsor, Nova Scotia</div><div><br><div><div>On 10-11-2011, at 3:30 PM, Joseph Garrett wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><div>Les Bartlett asked: <br>"This is second attempt for a decent toooner, but limited repair-er to help<br>me with something I think I saw on this list in short form, but which I need<br>better explained. Evidently on some verticals, a, or some techs drill holes<br>through tuning pin bushings, down to pin block, then use super glue to send<br>down the hole which then gets into the pinblock. I'm inexperienced, and a<br>bit nervous about trying such without a bit more information about how they<br>accomplish it, and experienced results. Would someone who does this<br>please reply- off list probably good as I don't want to waste other folks'<br>time. <br>Thanks"<br><br>Les,<br>That was me that reported that. I use a 1/16" x 12" Aviation twist bit in a<br>variable speed drill. Because the bit is so long you can "bend" it a bit,<br>in the process of drilling, (w/o breaking it<G>However, buy at least two<br>bits.<G>). This set up is a bit awkward, at first, but you get used to it.<br>The Variable Speed Drill I use is the best I've found....ever!<G> It's a<br>Souix Falls, ergonomic and it's the real deal! It's only down side is it's<br>a corded rather than being battery operated. I wear a leather glove on my<br>left hand, (the one I guide the bit with), to hold the bit and get the<br>drill bit started in the bushing with "slow" speed and then up the speed<br>just a bit. You should be able to feel the bit exit the other side of the<br>bushing, as there's usually a gap between the under side of the webbing,<br>(Plate), and the top of the pin block material. Even if you go a bit<br>deeper, it's not going to hurt anything imo. I get the bit started on the<br>outer edge of the bushing. Since you are forced to drill at a slight angle<br>this will assure you, (hopefully), that you are drilling only the bushing.<br>After I've done the drilling, I try to get as much of the sawdust out of<br>the holes and tuning pin field. I use a crevice tool with a MickeyDee's<br>straw taped over the tip. This will allow you to get right down over the<br>drilled holes and suck that stuff up. Make sure you are using a H.D.<br>Vacuum, because some cheapie vacuums do not like a severely restricted<br>situation. (DAMHIK!!)<br>Once the holes are clean, I load up a Veterinary Syringe w/a blunt needle,<br>(one that will go INTO the drilled hole), with CA, Super Thin and proceed<br>to saturate that sucker. So far, I've had very good success with this<br>procedure. Yes, it takes a bunch of time and it's a bit trying on the bod,<br>but that's why we get the big bucks. And, it's a whole lot less time than<br>disassembly and replacement of a pinblock in a marginal piano.<G> <br>I always have a conversation with the client about the possibility of<br>failure of this procedure, and the possibility of the need/cost to replace<br>a pin block. (Yes, I have had a failure on a VERY crappy piano! I suspect<br>the pinblock material was Balsa Wood!<G>) So far, however, I've had good,<br>LONG TERM success. Many happy clients because of it.<G><br>Hope that helps,<br>Joe<br><br><br><br>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<br>Captain of the Tool Police<br>Squares R I<br><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>