thanks!<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 10:50 AM, William Monroe <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:bill@a440piano.net">bill@a440piano.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Noah,<div><br></div><div>As others have said, if it's a brass onlay "decal," you probably want to do whatever you can to preserve it. The brass decal is placed on the fallboard prior to building up the finish, and the finish has to be built up even with the brass (usually a coat or two above that) to get it smooth. If you pull it out, you'll be left with an imprint of the decal, into which it is virtually impossible to fit and finish a new one.</div>
<div><br></div><div>There are options:</div><div>1. Polish the decal periodically at tuning visits.</div><div>2. Polish the decal, top coat with clear lacquer, rub out the finish as desired (unless it's a high polish, then I would stick with 1).</div>
<div>3. Strip the fallboard and replace the brass, building up the finish as well (lots of work).</div><div>4. Remove the brass decal, build up the remaining pockets and smooth the fallboard, apply a dry transfer decal, top coat to protect and rub out (again, if it is high polish, it's a different game).</div>
<div><br></div><div>Best of luck,</div><div>William R. Monroe</div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div><br></div><div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 4:57 PM, Noah Frere <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:noahfrere@gmail.com" target="_blank">noahfrere@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I unfortunately didn't take as careful note of the letters as I should have. Thanks though,<div><div>
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Paul McCloud <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:pmc033@earthlink.net" target="_blank">pmc033@earthlink.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi, Noah:<br>
Are the letters under the finish, or do the letters protrude and are exposed? Most imports have exposed letters, but there are some embedded under the finish. The finish was supposed to protect the letters from tarnishing, but they will eventually do so, and there's nothing you can do except to strip and refinish. Except that they are usually polyester finishes and can't be easily stripped. If they are exposed, then just use brass polish as David says.<br>
<span><font color="#888888">Paul McCloud<br>
San Diego<br>
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----- Original Message -----<br>
From: "Noah Frere" <<a href="mailto:noahfrere@gmail.com" target="_blank">noahfrere@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target="_blank">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 7:17:26 AM<br>
Subject: Re: [pianotech] price for fallboard decal<br>
<br>
in retrospect it probably is tarnish. thanks,<br>
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On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 3:10 AM, David Nereson < <a href="mailto:da88ve@gmail.com" target="_blank">da88ve@gmail.com</a> > wrote:<br>
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On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 3:03 PM, Noah Frere < <a href="mailto:noahfrere@gmail.com" target="_blank">noahfrere@gmail.com</a> > wrote:<br>
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Just throwing this out there before I call specific companies. Just looking for a ballpark figure: how much to put in a new metal Schimmel decal on a grand fallboard. The old one is rusty, and it must be done to a high standard.<br>
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Ballpark figure is fine,<br>
<br>
I've no idea, but if it's metal, it's not a decal. Decals are usually of two types: the model airplane type that you soak in water, then slide off onto the model, and the piano type which is "glued" on with the wet lacquer or varnish, then the paper backing is soaked off, and more finish is applied to the decal.<br>
I've never heard of inlaid brass letters becoming "rusty." Are you sure it's not just tarnish? I would try Brasso applied with a Q-tip, or maybe a Scotch-brite pad or fine steel wool rubbed on the letters with the end of a hammer shank.<br>
But if they're actually rusty and need to be replaced, that's specialized inlay work. I would call Schimmel.<br>
--David Nereson, RPT<br>
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