<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:ns0="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="country-region"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> It can’t be that hard to sort them out. This isn’t a million dollar instrument. A standard flange should fit it. The Pianotech catalog shows them at actual size, so you can just lay the pieces over the picture to check it out. Front to back spacing isn’t real critical, although you may want to check the spoons when you are done. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Depending on how hard the felt is, you might be better off to put in new. You can also get the grooves out of the flat felts by softening the top layer of old felt with a coarse piece of sandpaper.  This will probably salvage the top section. The bass felts will be a lot harder to make align, but you could try it. I sometime use a small round file made for sharpening a chain saw chain to file away the impressions made by the bass string windings.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I often use a piece of coarse grit on a heavy backing paper to slightly rough up buzzing old treble dampers. Just cut a piece wide enough to span 4 or 5 damper heads, step on the sustain pedal, insert the paper, release the pedal, and scuff it a few times. Works wonders.  Klingspor’s is a great source for sandpaper. You can get a 10 pound “Bargain box” of very excellent material for $20 I’m on my third box in 12 years, and I go thru a lot of sandpaper.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Don Hubbs <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: Gerald Groot [mailto:tunerboy3@comcast.net] Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 9:03 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Plastic Damper flanges<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> I don’t have specs for it but, I have done a few of these.  It is a PITA.  I did as Wim suggested, starting from scratch.  Finding the right sized dampers first, then, bending and all that fun stuff that goes along with it.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> It looks like maybe hammer flanges might be plastic too?  Maybe it’s the flash from the camera…  You’re probably already planning on this but if not, I’d replace whatever else is plastic while you’re at it.  Save time and money later. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Jer Groot<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Encore Pianos Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 9:52 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Plastic Damper flanges<o:p></o:p> </div> </div> <o:p> </o:p> This is no more than a guess on my part, but:<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> This is likely a Pratt – Read action, yes?  It is possible that there is no difference between these plastic parts that superseded earlier wood flanges other than material choice.  Since these parts were put on so many different pianos, it seems reasonable to explore that avenue.  Others may chime in if they have more immediate knowledge than I.  If it turns out they are the same, then some supply house parts may fill the bill.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Even though Story and Clark’s pianos these days are instruments made in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">China</st1:place></st1:country-region>, it couldn’t hurt to call them and see if anybody would know.  I think John Omatek is the person you need to talk to, at 1-800-247-6557.  Nothing ventured, nothing gained.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Once you find the correct underlever flanges, you could repin section end samples with the wood flanges and mount them on the rail to use as guides as you replace the set.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Will Truitt<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of tnrwim@aol.com Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 9:12 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Plastic Damper flanges<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Rob<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> With no specs to go by, I guess the only thing left is to start from scratch. Buy new damper levers with flanges attached, and a new set of damper felts, and put them on, one at a time. This is going to be a long process. It would be best if you can get the piano to your shop, or be prepared to spend a couple of days at the customer's house. Which brings up the second problem. Make sure the customer is willing to pay for at least two days of work, plus parts. <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Wim<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> -----Original Message----- From: Rob McCall <<a href="mailto:rob@mccallpiano.com">rob@mccallpiano.com</a>> To: pianotech <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>> Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 12:36 am Subject: [pianotech] Plastic Damper flanges<o:p></o:p> <div id="AOLMsgPart_2_2ed32b84-9e65-43e0-bc6c-629505118b12"> Greetings and happy new year! <o:p></o:p> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> This is from a 1955 Story & Clark console.  Damper flanges are made of extremely brittle plastic. The lightest of touch and they disintegrate in your hands. When I opened the lid on the piano, all the dampers were piled up on top of each other at the bass end. I guess they tilted it when they moved it and the damper flanges self-destructed. <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> Fortunately, all the other flanges on the piano are made of wood.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> I'm unable to get any specs on the flanges due to the fact that not a single one of them is whole. Best I can estimate, from the best one I could find is that the distance from the center pin to the center of the screw hole is around 15mm, and the spring appears to be about 1" long from it's attachment to the apex of the bend in the spring.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> Does anyone have any specs for this?  Or does it look like the standard spinet flange from Schaff, etc. would work?<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> Also, if anyone has any hints or tips as to how best to sort the pile of damper levers from the mayhem it's in, into the correct order it needs to be in, I'd appreciate it...  and no, they aren't numbered...  :-/<o:p></o:p> <div> <div> <div> <div> <div> <div> Regards,<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> Rob McCall<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> McCall Piano Service, LLC <a href="http://www.mccallpiano.com/" target="_blank">www.mccallpiano.com</a><o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Murrieta</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">CA</st1:State></st1:place><o:p></o:p> </div> <div> 951-698-1875<o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <img border=0 width=940 height=703 id="_x005f_x0030_b2ae723-b68f-4097-a216-7b7dc0fb31b2" src="cid:image001.jpg@01CCC938.D3C757B0"><o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </body> </html>