>I think I'm gonna stay away from the table saw method. Didn't Chuck Behm have a PTJournal article about doing it this way not too long ago? The setup looks kinda dangerous to me, especially for keysticks with a severe flare angle. Too much to go wrong, in my opinion. - Chris S. I did write about this, Chris. As far as safety issues concerning the blade, I'm convinced it's the safest method, if done right. The method I use is to have the blade all the way up, so that the cut being made is nearly perpendicular to the bed of the saw, and without a blade guard in place, so one can see what is going on as the cut is being done. You must, of course, wear appropriate goggles, and gloves (especially if you're cutting off the old keytops, chips of which will tend to zing you in the fingers). The thing that makes this particularly safe (in my opinion) is that the key is not being pulled forward, as is the case when using a router. The blade is spinning downward, keeping the key planted on the keybed, and since the key is not being pushed all the way past the blade (another reason to have the blade fully extended - you don't want the leading edge of the key to hit the teeth of the saw a second time coming out the other side), there's no tendency for the keystick to fly upward. You push the keystick in, then pull it back out. (If you push a keystick in and let go of it, it will just sit there on the saw bed not going anywhere.) If you keep you fingers at all times behind the key button, and keep an eye on where you're stopping with the forward cut, you shouldn't ever have a problem. The one thing to be concerned about is when cutting off old tops, make sure you're not creating a combustible mixture inside the saw. Just recently (and I know better) I cut off a set of old celluloid tops. Halfway through the job, a spark from the saw ignited the mound of shredded celluloid, and flames shot up past the blade. Fortunately, I had a fire extinguisher within 10 feet of the saw. I emptied it into the saw, then cleaned out the smouldering woodchips inside the body of the saw. The rest of the keytops I took of with a heated iron, then skimmed off the top of the keysticks to match the others. Needless to say, I won't do that again. (Just as I will never again try to use an 18" extension bit on my drill press, or cut a 4" square cube of oak on my chop saw.) I've been doing keys this way since the 1970's, and this is the first time I've had a problem. Do make sure you check the blade with a square every time you do a job, or you can end up with keys that look like a nicely shingled roof. Chuck Behm P.S. This method works for me, but if everyone else in the world likes using a Safe-T-Planer, a router or 80 grit sandpaper, that's fine. To each his own.