<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:ns0="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns:ns1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> If you aren’t going to change them you might try a drop or two of CA at the stress points.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dean<o:p></o:p> Dean W May                        (812) 235-5272 voice and text<o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com           (888) DEAN-MAY         <o:p></o:p> <ST1:PLACE u1:st="on"><ST1:PLACE u2:st="on"><U2:CITY u1:st="on"><ns1:City w:insAuthor="Dean May" w:insDate="2012-02-07T09:22:00Z" w:endInsAuthor="Dean May" w:endInsDate="2012-02-07T09:22:00Z"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Terre Haute</st1:City></st1:place></ns1:City></U2:CITY> <ns1:State w:insAuthor="Dean May" w:insDate="2012-02-07T09:22:00Z" w:endInsAuthor="Dean May" w:endInsDate="2012-02-07T09:22:00Z"><U2:STATE u1:st="on"><st1:State w:st="on">IN</U2:STATE></st1:State></ns1:State> <ns1:PostalCode w:insAuthor="Dean May" w:insDate="2012-02-07T09:22:00Z" w:endInsAuthor="Dean May" w:endInsDate="2012-02-07T09:22:00Z"><U2:POSTALCODE u1:st="on"><st1:PostalCode w:st="on">47802</st1:PostalCode>           Give us a LIKE on Facebook! <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/PianoRebuilderscom/137780082943148">Go to PianoRebuilders.com</a></U2:POSTALCODE></ns1:PostalCode><o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Encore Pianos Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 5:55 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> Hi Terry:  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Wim is absolutely right on this one.  He is saying this because he has come upon many a Steinway damper job where the old levers have broken at the pivot point or worn so much that they wander to the side, with singing strings the result.  Often many more than one doing this.  I have seen this many times, like Wim.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> When I replace the dampers on a Steinway upright, I use something like the Tokiwa kit and always replace the levers.  Most of the time, I am replacing hammers at the same time, so I have the old shanks removed from the butts, and the butts screwed to the rail.  Like in the factory, I have easy access to the wires to do all fore-aft and side to side bending to space the dampers to the strings and damper timing for pedal lift.  If you are using barrels instead of the old damper heads, there is only one bend to make and refine for damper spacing.  It takes a lot less time to do than you think (that’s why it is a factory method).  With the barrels spaced out at roughly the proper distance (end samples each section, then a straight edge check), you go through and quickly make your bend to center the barrel over the strings.  Then glue your damper heads with felts onto the barrels.  Then refine your spacing and adjust for lift.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> You will have the satisfaction of a good job that will be trouble free for a very long time.  I think you will find the damper bending easier than you think.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Good luck, <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Will Truitt  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of tnrwim@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 3:20 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid blue 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 2.0pt; margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> That's not going to happen. The less I have to do the better. And I don't relish having to bend a whole set of damper rods! No thanks. <img border=0 width=19 height=19 id="_x0000_i1025" src="http://tracking.technodesignip.com/?action=count&projectid=642&contentid=6566&referrer=-&urlaction=redirect&url=http://images.Quebles.com/hotmail/emoticons/1511517.GIF" alt=Confused> Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> </div> <div> Terry<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Take it from someone who has done this, on pianos this old, the wood is very brittle. The process of removing and putting the levers back on puts a lot of strain on that very thin strip of wood of the lever. But suit yourself. Maybe after you get a few calls backs, you'll change your mind.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Wim<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> -----Original Message----- From: pianolover 88 <<a href="mailto:pianolover88@hotmail.com">pianolover88@hotmail.com</a>> To: pianotech <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>> Sent: Mon, Feb 6, 2012 6:42 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright<o:p></o:p> <div id="AOLMsgPart_1_1ee86910-363b-4075-ab9e-c4fab83e50e5"> <div> That's not going to happen. The less I have to do the better. And I don't relish having to bend a whole set of damper rods! No thanks. <img border=0 width=19 height=19 id="_x0000_i1026" src="http://tracking.technodesignip.com/?action=count&projectid=642&contentid=6566&referrer=-&urlaction=redirect&url=http://images.Quebles.com/hotmail/emoticons/1511517.GIF" alt=Confused> Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson "Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" <a href="http://unigeezer.com/" target="_blank">www.unigeezer.com</a><o:p></o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center id=stopSpelling> </div> From: <a href="mailto:tnrwim@aol.com">tnrwim@aol.com</a> Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 18:17:51 -1000 To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright<o:p></o:p> <div> Terry<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> In addition to replacing the felts, I would highly recommend that you also replace the levers. My experience ha shown that they get weak where they are screwed to the flange, and you might as well replace them now, instead later.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> Wim Sent from my iPhone<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> On Feb 6, 2012, at 2:49 PM, pianolover 88 <<a href="mailto:pianolover88@hotmail.com">pianolover88@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> <div> I"m replacing worn hammers and *dampers* on a client's old Steinway upright, circa 1908. Having never replaced dampers on this particular model, I was unaware that--apparently--replacing dampers on this piano is a NIGHTMARE, and one of the most difficult damper jobs of ANY piano, either upright or grand. Is this true? This gloomy scenario was communicated to me by a tech who works at a local piano supply house, but I'd rather not mention who. I was told that the felts, especially the treble, are 'tapered' and that you must "peel little layers off as you work your way up", or they won't lift properly, and won't dampen correctly. Basically I was told that ALL the dampers are almost impossible to get right with modern day replacements, without significant modification. Pics attached are from the action showing the dampers. I would appreciate ANY advice the forum member may have, and what you might suggest, short of declining the job! PS: Brooks LTD told me that the Tokiwa TDVK damper kit (pic also attached) would work well. Your thoughts on this would also be appreciated. Thanks, Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson "Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" <a href="http://unigeezer.com/" target="_blank">www.unigeezer.com</a><o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> <DSC02116.JPG><o:p></o:p> </div> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> <DSC02117.JPG><o:p></o:p> </div> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> <DSC02118.JPG><o:p></o:p> </div> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> <DSC02114.JPG><o:p></o:p> </div> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> <tvdk.jpg><o:p></o:p> </div> </blockquote> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </body> </html>