<html> <head> <style></style></head> <body class='hmmessage'><div dir='ltr'> Took me about 30 minutes to install these, and less than an hour total from initial removal of the rail, to re-installation with new springs.  Way faster than the usual method and total cost was about $28. As for the original springs, I simply snipped away only what was still exposed, (coils mostly) since there was no need to remove the embedded, pressed in parts, or scrape off the felt strip. This saved a lot of time as well. Piano hammers return perfectly now, with no "hangers". Cheers, Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson "Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" <a style="font-weight:bold" href="http://unigeezer.com/" target="_blank">www.unigeezer.com</a> <div><div id="SkyDrivePlaceholder"></div>> From: joegarrett@earthlink.net > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 22:18:03 -0700 > Subject: Re: [pianotech] missing bridle straps > > Terry said: > "Dang, too bad you can't edit after you send, lol. I did notice upon > removing the rail, that two of those repair springs had been installed. > I've done lots of full spring replacements, removing all the old springs > and pressing in a new set, which I HATE! So I might just get a whole set of > the screw in type; yeah their a lot more expensive, but much faster and > easier to install. I know they are usually installed without removing the > spring rail, but since I already removed it, I think maybe I'll just > install them with the rail out, then just put it back in, as I usually do > with the traditional press-in type. .. > Cheers," > > Terry, > It's obvious you don't know the correct way to install hammer springs, > otherwise you wouldn't even consider the screw in type.<G> In the time that > it would take you to install those damned things, I could remove/replace > springs/reinstall 6 sets to your one screw on type!. The real trick is to > have a work bench, some clamps, pliers wire cutters and 2 - 1/8" rods with > dowel handles on one end and pointed on the other.Each should span 1/2 the > length of the spring rail. Also needed is some hot hide glue, a scraper and > some spring rail felt. The hardest part is to remove the rail, ...use an > off-set screw driver. Convert the rail and thread the brackets so you can > put the rail back on by screwing bolts through the rail into the brackets > from the back, (damper side), of the action. Once the rail is out, pull all > of the old springs out of the rail. Make sure the holes/slots are clear of > glue. Clamp the rail to a bench at each "break". (small clamps..4 needed). > Scrape all of the old hammer spring rail felt and glue off of the rail. > Recheck the holes and/or slots that the spring tails go into/through. > Install a new set of springs. Trim the tails and make sure they are tight > in the holes and/or slots. Slather the spring tails with glue and install > the new spring rail felt. Put the rail back in. Put all the springs into > the hammer butt spring grooves. You're done. Reinstall the action and > adjust accordingly. Should take about 2 hours total. Well worth it. > As for the missing bridle straps, I suspect the action is tilted towards > the front / keys so the hammers return on their own. Check it.<G> > Regards, > Joe > > > Joe Garrett, R.P.T. > Captain of the Tool Police > Squares R I > </div> </div></body> </html>