<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">I have a container of that silicone, and I couldn't remember  where I got it.<div>It all came back to me, when you mentioned mixing it with naptha. I remember mixing up a batch.</div><div>I found that it evaporated on me, so obviously my container was not a good one.</div><div>For some reason I had it in my mind I got it from Hammond, when I worked on organs.</div><div>I have quite a bit left, it is Dow Corning 200 dielectric fluid, 1000 cs. viscosity.</div><div>Amazing what we keep, I must have had it about 30 years.</div><div>John Ross</div><div>Windsor, Nova Scotia<br><div><div>On 30-03-2012, at 7:02 PM, Carlos Ralon wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><div>Is the Liquid Teflon we used to get from Wurlitzer still available, if so...<br>where? We used it in mixture with Naptha as CPL for many years?  <br>Carlos  Ralon, RPT<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: <a href="mailto:atrav27@att.net">atrav27@att.net</a> [mailto:atrav27@att.net] <br>Sent: Friday, March 30, 2012 12:12 PM<br>To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>Subject: Re: [pianotech] teflon<br><br>----- Original Message -----<br>From: Heritage Pianos<br><br>A local technician has recently made claims to the contrary and warned other<br>members of the local PTG to use Teflon.<br><br>===============<br><br>Only my opinion here, so completely unofficial. ;o)<br><br>If Teflon is bad, I'm in trouble. I use it for where grease would be too<br>thick, and where oil would be too thin, where I would prefer something 'dry'<br>like places you'd use graphite. IMO it's good for something that is not<br>going to be touched again in a very long time, some place where I think oil<br>would evaporate eventually, and I use it for anti-corrosion with strings and<br>such.<br><br>I use DuPont Teflon ChainSaver. It does have solvents, so I usually spray it<br>on a q-tip or paper towel first, then wipe. It is very slippery when dry,<br>but no oily or greasy feel, more like something very polished. I like the<br>ChainSaver because it has molybdenum too, so that helps keep things slippery<br>for a long time (like I wrote, for things that may never be touched again<br>for years or decades). So, I use it primarily for the rail key pins, for<br>lube and I see lots of corrosion consistently in the rail pins (I'm in humid<br>Florida), and as a wipe on the strings for anti corrosion. It does seem to<br>provide a real Teflon coating, so good for anti-dust too, once again it's<br>nice to have a lube that is 'dry' so you don't get dust and dirt sticking to<br>it.<br><br><a href="http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659">http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659</a><br><br>I don't use it for anti-corrosion at the tuning pins because it REALLY is<br>very thin and slippery when first applied, so I can imagine creating a loose<br>tuning pin as a result. It dries in about a minute. Doesn't feel waxy to me,<br>but they say once dry you end up with a wax-moly-Teflon coating.<br><br>-Aron-<br><br>PS, for grease, especially for brass (castors and pedals), I prefer<br>'SuperLube' synthetic grease. <br>Doesn't seem to damage/soften wood like petroleum greases, it'll make<br>leather soft but doesn't seem to damage it. So for the various combinations<br>of high clearance pedal parts that combine brass to wood to leather, it<br>works a treat, and lasts.<br>http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506761 <br><br><br><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>