<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:dt="uuid:C2F41010-65B3-11d1-A29F-00AA00C14882" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta name="Microsoft Theme 2.00" content="sumipntg 111"><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style></style></head><body bgcolor=white background="cid:image001.jpg@01CD2D63.C6342210" lang=EN-US link="#660099" vlink="#993366"><img src="cid:image001.jpg@01CD2D63.C6342210" v:src="cid:image001.jpg@01CD2D63.C6342210" v:shapes="_x0000_Mail" width=0 height=0 class=shape style='display:none;width:0;height:0'><div class=WordSection1>Recently I revisited my plate finishing process for my rebuilds and have made some changes to my process.  I am using automotive paints and primers.  While these materials are more expensive than throwing some plate gold into a can of Nitro lacquer, they will give a better finish and are more durable.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>Automotive paints are more evolved than the lacquers that we use in our case finishing.  But it’s a big industry and can be confusing when trying to find your way to good products that will best meet your particular needs.  It is invaluable to be able to deal with an experienced  paint pro at the automotive finishing department at your local auto parts store.  I spent a lot of time talking with a fellow named Joe Red Cloud, whose been doing this stuff for 25 years, and he has done (and still does) auto painting on the side.  His wife runs the video store in my town and I have known him for years.  He is a film buff like me, so I was lucky to have a very friendly helping hand to guide me.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>It is important to have a clear sense of what you want the paints to do for you.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>I started using auto paints 10 years or so ago when I was having some adhesion problems that persisted through a couple of plates (I was using nitro lacquers and metallic gold powders).  So I wanted to go to a system that could give me consistent results.  So I was advised primer, base coat, clear coat.  At that time, I was able to find a particular color of gold auto paint that matched the old Steinway color pretty much dead on the money.  I used to love to bring a customer into the shop and show them the plate, telling them that I was able to find these extra special materials.  They’d look at it and say, “It’s so beautiful”.  I’d say, “ask me what it is”.  “What is it?”, and I would reply with a smile, “Dodge Dart Gold”.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>They no longer make it, and it is pretty hard to find gold paints, particularly ones that you like.  Instead of a pre-mix gold, I will add a gold metallic powder to my base coat.  I have been able to find a couple of good sources for various shades of Gold.  Larry Buck turned me onto a company called Crescent Bronze, which has many colors of gold.  They are at, <a href="http://www.crescentbronze.com/order_products/chromatone">http://www.crescentbronze.com/order_products/chromatone</a>.  Unfortunately, the color charts online are all but worthless, so you would need to order some color charts from them.  Not so for at <a href="https://www.nnigroup.com/glandmp/default.aspx">https://www.nnigroup.com/glandmp/default.aspx</a> .  They have about 75 shades of gold, and large circular patterns that clearly show the color.  Prices vary depending on the color, but generally about $20 for 6 oz., $41 for 16 oz.  Those amounts will do a lot of plates.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>I start with the primer.  Primer is important for a couple of reasons.  It will adhere to the sanded surface of the original paint and bond  well with the top coats.  Also, primer will sand more easily than the top coats and can go a long way to having a level and smooth surface for the succeeding coats to adhere to.   I will have washed the plate and wet sanded it with 220 wet and dry paper.  Putty the dings and wacks with bondo or another filling putty and sand level and even.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>I discovered a new primer that I really, really like because it sands so easily, but gives you a very smooth surface when you are done.  It is SEM High Build Primer Surfacer, and is available in 5 colors.  It only comes in 20 oz. aerosols, (about $17) which was surprising to me – it is not available in quarts or gallons.  That is not necessarily a bad thing.  The aerosols spray well and lay finish quickly.  If you sand through your primer and need to touch up a few spots, you don’t have to clean the gun.  1 to 1 /2 cans is enough to do the average plate, spraying on 3 coats at 10 minute intervals.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>I was amazed at how easily and quickly it sanded, powdered right up and did not clog the paper.  In fact, I found it better to use Scotch Brite Scuff Pads, starting with Maroon and going to Grey.  They worked as quickly as the sandpaper, but had the added advantage of conforming to the irregular curves of the plate readily.  Less sand through.   I spent about 2 hours scuffing the plate smooth as a baby’s bottom after priming.  <o:p></o:p>It’s the best primer I have used.  It’s really important to spend your sanding time here to get a good surface to lay the paint on.  The sanding will never be any quicker or easier than at this point, and you are laying the foundation for top coats that will lay down smoothly.  Joe told me that the collision guys love this stuff because it works so easily and is fantastic for spot repairs.  Highly recommended.<o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>It used to be my practice to mix the gold powders with the top coat clear and spray it on, then follow with the clear.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>There is a better way to do it than that.  Joe turned me onto what is called an Intercoat Carrier.  That is a clear that is specially formulated to mix with metallic powders or pearls.  It will hold the particles in suspension  better than a straight clear, and flows out and levels better.  I sprayed a couple of test panels, one with regular clear, one with the intercoat clear.  Night and day difference – the intercoat carrier definitely lays down much better.  The one that I use , Deltron DBC-870 Intercoat Carrier is $108 per quart.  But you mix it 1:1 with reducer, so that’s really 2 quarts, and you will use about 2/3 quart for a  plate.  Three wet coats at 15 minute intervals.   Let sit for � hour and you can then clearcoat.  Otherwise you will need to scuff before you clearcoat.  The intercoat carriers do require a top clearcoat. <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>For the clearcoat, I use Dupont ChromaClear HC-7776S Clearcoat, with  Dupont ChromaBase 4 to 17765S activator reducer.  Since I do not like the high gloss glitter of the clears, the Chromaclear is mixed with One Choice SU4985 universal matting agent.  This allows me to control the sheen, which I prefer as a semigloss.  This will give depth to your finish and accentuate the curves of the plate with a bit of glow, and draw out the colors more.    2 to 3 coats at 5 minute intervals.  I do not sand or polish the top coat.     <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>For plate lettering, I used the  Shachihata  Artline 400XF paint marker, which I got from a local art supply store.  It’s a felt tip, and the pigment in the paint covered well, comes in 2 sizes.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>I don’t  pretend to be an expert here.  Rather, I am sharing the expertise of others and reporting the positive results that I have had, so that others may benefit if they are so inclined.  I would love it if others share what they have learned along the way that has brought them good results.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>Will Truitt<o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p></div></body></html>