<HTML style="FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif; FONT-SIZE: x-small"><HEAD>
<META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 8.00.6001.19222"></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV>
<DIV>Thumper,</DIV>
<DIV>Your message, definately took a "left turn".<G> I don't see any mention of warped hammer spring rails, on this subject.<G> It is relevant tho, in a sideways sort of "Thumper" way..<G> Is the aluminum angle equal sided? I suspect that it would be a toss-up as to how long it takes to make a new rail and cutting/drilling/screwing an aluminum angle to an existing, albeit, warped hammer spring rail.<G> I'd opt for a new rail, slightly redesigned to offset possible "warpage". You are correct about the touch uniformity..er...somewhat.<G></DIV>
<DIV>That's my take on that.</DIV>
<DIV>Joe</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=lclgcnp@yahoo.com href="mailto:lclgcnp@yahoo.com">Euphonious Thumpe</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=joegarrett@earthlink.net href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">joegarrett@earthlink.net</A>;<A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 5/12/2012 6:49:48 AM </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Beefing up spring rails for better touch uniformity.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif; COLOR: #000; FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
<DIV><SPAN>We've all seen terribly warped spring rails in old uprights. I've successfully straightened and strengthened several with very short-legged aluminum angle (1/8" thick by 1/2 " legs, I believe ) carefully cut to fit over the top of the rail, and screwed to it, with notches filed where the action brackets go.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Euphonious Thumpe<BR></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif; FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
<DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif; FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
<DIV dir=ltr><FONT size=2 face=Arial>
<DIV style="BORDER-BOTTOM: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; LINE-HEIGHT: 0; MARGIN: 5px 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; HEIGHT: 0px; FONT-SIZE: 0px; BORDER-TOP: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=hr contentEditable=false readonly="true"></DIV><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> Joseph Garrett <joegarrett@earthlink.net><BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> Joe Goss <imatunr@srvinet.com>; pianotech@ptg.org <BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Friday, May 11, 2012 9:58 PM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs<BR></FONT></DIV><BR>Joe, (the other one.<G>)<BR>Once I get the rail out, I don't want to ever have to do all the "dancin'<BR>around" to get it back in...so, I take the rail to the wood jawed vice and<BR>drill out the screw holes to accomodate 1/4" bolts. Then I drill out the<BR>brackets for tapping to 1/4"-20 threads. I remove the felt at those points.<BR>I use 1/4"-20 x 1" R.H. Screws to re-install the rail. Easy/Peasy.<G> In<BR>the past, there have been several manufacturers that did this, including<BR>S&S. The rest just didn't get it, imo.<G> BTW, most action brackets are<BR>more than beefy enough for this modification. Also, Make Sure you have the<BR>rail firmly clamped at the points of drilling out, so that it doesn't<BR>split. I've only run into a couple of spring rails that were too wimpy for<BR>this modification, so have at it....(gitterdun).<BR>Joe<BR><BR><BR>> [Original Message]<BR>> From: Joe Goss <<A href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com" ymailto="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A>><BR>> To: <<A href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net" ymailto="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">joegarrett@earthlink.net</A>>; <<A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>><BR>> Date: 5/11/2012 8:27:49 AM<BR>> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs<BR>><BR>> Hi Joe and Paul,<BR>> Having never used an offset screwdriver to remove this rail, nor even<BR>owned <BR>> one, even for rocker arm lost motion adjustment,<BR>> I use a 1/8" screwdriver blade to remove the screws. Sometimes but<BR>seldom, <BR>> if one is tenacious, it is necessary to remove the felt blocks.<BR>> Take care in replacing the, (I call it the whisker rail) return spring<BR>rail <BR>> so that you do not bend the springs out of shape.<BR>> Joe please describe the screw replacement that you do.<BR>> Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT<BR>> <A href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com" ymailto="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR>> <A href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com" target=_blank>www.mothergoosetools.com</A><BR>> ----- Original Message ----- <BR>> From: "Joseph Garrett" <<A href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net" ymailto="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">joegarrett@earthlink.net</A>><BR>> To: "pianotech" <<A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>><BR>> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 9:09 AM<BR>> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs<BR>><BR>><BR>> > Paul said:<BR>> > "1980 Kohler & Campbell 41.5" Mahogany Console, good condition, except <BR>> > that<BR>> > several hammer springs have broken up close to the rail/coil, of course<BR>> > causing hammers not to return. Springs do not appear rusty, but have<BR>what<BR>> > looks like verdigris at the coil. Might this have caused spring<BR>weakness?<BR>> > Not sure why they are breaking. Piano is very clean, rust- and<BR>mold-free,<BR>> > etc. Excellent, even tuning pin torque throughout. Anyone know anything<BR>> > about this era of K&C consoles regarding hammer spring weakness? They do<BR>> > not seem like very strong springs, very thin wire.<BR>> ><BR>> > Also would like to know if the spring rail will remove easily without <BR>> > taking<BR>> > other parts off the brackets?this will be my first time doing this job<BR>if<BR>> > they opt for it.<BR>> ><BR>> > They have already mentioned, even without a quote yet, that they thought<BR>> > this would be a rather expensive job considering they only paid $300<BR>for <BR>> > the<BR>> > piano. I'm thinking I'd have to bill 5 hours total for this work.<BR>Thoughts<BR>> > about whether it is worth doing this job on this piano? Everything else<BR>> > looks in "good" condition."<BR>> ><BR>> > Thanks.<BR>> ><BR>> > Paul,<BR>> > This has been covered many times before. The cause of the spring<BR>failure <BR>> > is<BR>> > the chemicals in the felt on the rail, that is touching the springs.<BR>It's <BR>> > a<BR>> > 4 hour job...max! I can do it in 2! AND, I would convert the rail<BR>> > attachment system, as well. You will need an off-set screwdriver,<BR>(ratchet<BR>> > types are best), to remove the rail, initially. The quality of that<BR>piano,<BR>> > (without my having seen it!), is far better than the Chinese Crap that<BR>is<BR>> > out there today, imo. It's actually made out of real wood. What the<BR>client<BR>> > paid for it is of no relevence! Just fix it and they will have a good <BR>> > piano<BR>> > for their uses. That's my take on that<BR>> > Joe<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> > Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>> > Captain of the Tool Police<BR>> > Squares R I<BR>> ><BR>> > <BR>><BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>