<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt"><div>We've all seen terribly warped spring rails in old uprights. I've successfully straightened and strengthened several with very short-legged aluminum angle (1/8" thick by 1/2 " legs, I believe ) carefully cut to fit over the top of the rail, and screwed to it, with notches filed where the action brackets go.</div><div></div><div> </div><div>Euphonious Thumpe </div> <div style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div dir="ltr"> <div style="margin: 5px 0px; padding: 0px; border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); height: 0px; line-height: 0; font-size: 0px;" class="hr" contentEditable="false" readonly="true"></div> From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett@earthlink.net> To: Joe Goss <imatunr@srvinet.com>; pianotech@ptg.org Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 9:58 PM Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs </div> Joe, (the other one.<G>) Once I get the rail out, I don't want to ever have to do all the "dancin' around" to get it back in...so, I take the rail to the wood jawed vice and drill out the screw holes to accomodate 1/4" bolts. Then I drill out the brackets for tapping to 1/4"-20 threads. I remove the felt at those points. I use 1/4"-20 x 1" R.H. Screws to re-install the rail. Easy/Peasy.<G> In the past, there have been several manufacturers that did this, including S&S. The rest just didn't get it, imo.<G> BTW, most action brackets are more than  beefy enough for this modification. Also, Make Sure you have the rail firmly clamped at the points of drilling out, so that it doesn't split. I've only run into a couple of spring rails that were too wimpy for this modification, so have at it....(gitterdun). Joe > [Original Message] > From: Joe Goss <<a href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com" ymailto="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</a>> > To: <<a href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net" ymailto="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">joegarrett@earthlink.net</a>>; <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>> > Date: 5/11/2012 8:27:49 AM > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs > > Hi Joe and Paul, > Having never used an offset screwdriver to remove this rail, nor even owned > one, even for rocker arm  lost motion adjustment, > I use a 1/8" screwdriver blade to remove the screws. Sometimes but seldom, > if one is tenacious, it is necessary to remove the felt blocks. > Take care in replacing the, (I call it the whisker rail) return spring rail > so that you do not bend the springs out of shape. > Joe please describe the screw replacement that you do. > Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT > <a href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com" ymailto="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</a> > <a href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com" target="_blank">www.mothergoosetools.com</a> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joseph Garrett" <<a href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net" ymailto="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">joegarrett@earthlink.net</a>> > To: "pianotech" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>> > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 9:09 AM > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs > > > > Paul said: > > "1980 Kohler & Campbell 41.5" Mahogany Console, good condition, except > > that > > several hammer springs have broken up close to the rail/coil, of course > > causing hammers not to return. Springs do not appear rusty, but have what > > looks like verdigris at the coil. Might this have caused spring weakness? > > Not sure why they are breaking. Piano is very clean, rust- and mold-free, > > etc. Excellent, even tuning pin torque throughout. Anyone know anything > > about this era of K&C consoles regarding hammer spring weakness? They do > > not seem like very strong springs, very thin wire. > > > > Also would like to know if the spring rail will remove easily without > > taking > > other parts off the brackets?this will be my first time doing this job if > > they opt for it. > > > > They have already mentioned, even without a quote yet, that they thought > > this would be a rather expensive job considering they only paid $300 for > > the > > piano. I'm thinking I'd have to bill 5 hours total for this work. Thoughts > > about whether it is worth doing this job on this piano? Everything else > > looks in "good" condition." > > > > Thanks. > > > > Paul, > > This has been covered many times before. The cause of the spring failure > > is > > the chemicals in the felt on the rail, that is touching the springs. It's > > a > > 4 hour job...max! I can do it in 2! AND, I would convert the rail > > attachment system, as well. You will need an off-set screwdriver, (ratchet > > types are best), to remove the rail, initially. The quality of that piano, > > (without my having seen it!), is far better than the Chinese Crap that is > > out there today, imo. It's actually made out of real wood. What the client > > paid for it is of no relevence! Just fix it and they will have a good > > piano > > for their uses. That's my take on that > > Joe > > > > > > Joe Garrett, R.P.T. > > Captain of the Tool Police > > Squares R I > > > > > </div> </div> </div></body></html>