<pre style="font-size: 9pt;">Gene Double dog what they said dittos.<tt> </tt>I've done this job with out removing the sides etc. and it was a big early model. This had a short rans bridge and it turned out to be a screamer. Dale <tt> Gene, If the keybed can be removed, then the need to remove the sides isn'tnecessary.<G> My experience says don't even try with a Steinway, as their glue joints were pretty much bullet proof!<G> (unlike most other manufactureres.)I'd follow Del's advice with the routing of the pinblock. I do that and I also have an interlocking Plug system that works, too. New board? Yer on yer own there.<G> </tt></pre> <div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><blockquote style="border-left: 2px solid blue; padding-left: 3px;"><pre><tt>here.<G</tt></pre></blockquote></div> <div style="clear:both">Dale Erwin... RPT Mason & Hamlin/Steinway/U.S pianos www.Erwinspiano.com 209-577-8397 <tt><tt>     </tt></tt> </div> <div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message----- From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett@earthlink.net> To: pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thu, May 17, 2012 2:19 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] S&S K(52) Restoration <div id="AOLMsgPart_0_50f21085-5a13-4b03-a717-3f74da64f843" style="margin: 0px;font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif;font-size: 12px;color: #000;background-color: #fff;"> <pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>"Hello all, I am just starting the restoration process for a 1916 SS K. Having never disassembled an upright before - what is the best way to remove the side panels and the part of the top lid that appears glued to the case? Are these pieces glued as well as screwed to the case? It would seem to me that removal of these panels is a must for refinishing and removal of the plate/board etc. Also, the complete top lid assembly must come off if I am to rout out the existing block. The piano will get refinished, new block new board. Your thoughts and experience would be appreciated." Gene, If the keybed can be removed, then the need to remove the sides isn'tnecessary.<G> My experience says don't even try with a Steinway, as their glue joints were pretty much bullet proof!<G> (unlike most other manufactureres.)I'd follow Del's advice with the routing of the pinblock. I do that and I also have an interlocking Plug system that works, too. New board? Yer on yer own there.<G> As for the Action, I'd leave it as designed. Yes, it's a bear to work on, however it is a very good one, that just needs to be approached from a different mindset. If I were to replace the action, I'd do a Fandrich & Sons action before I'd consider the Plastic stuff. (The original Fandrich action was first installed in a K-52, so all of the engineering is there.<G> Just call Darrell....after noon tho!<G)That would increase the action efficiency and make it a playing dream. As was stated, the plastic stuff is not available yet. When it comes out, I suspect it wouldn't work on a K-52 anyway. That's my take on that. Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain of the Tool Police Squares R I </tt></pre> </div>  </div>