<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body> I believe they are. Send me a picture<div>Dale Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 </div> Gene Nelson <nelsong@intune88.com> wrote: <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"> <o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"> <o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName">  <style>  </style> <div class="Section1"> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"> <hr size="2" width="100%" align="center" tabindex="-1"> </div> </div> <pre>Gene <o:p></o:p></pre><pre> Double dog what they said dittos.<tt> </tt>I've done this job with out removing the sides etc. <o:p></o:p></pre><pre> and it was a big early model. This had a short rans bridge and it turned out to be a screamer. <o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Dale <o:p></o:p></pre><pre>***<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Just getting it apart now so I can measure and record the scale.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>No wound trichords to deal with but no trans bridge. – not ruling out one for redesign depending on the scale. The end of the tenor bridge come very close to the bottom board/rim structure. The bass bridge seems more nicely positioned.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Bass bridge is canto levered and straight. The canto lever will go.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Huge birdseye maple space filler/cut off device in the lower right and a smaller cut off bar in the upper left. Might just keep that part the way it is.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Do you know if those pins that look like bridge pins – driven into the plate - that offset/terminate the wound bass strings just below the tuning pins are removable?<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Gene<o:p></o:p></pre><pre> <tt><o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre> <tt><o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre><tt>Gene,<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre><tt>If the keybed can be removed, then the need to remove the sides<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre><tt>isn'tnecessary.<G> My experience says don't even try with a Steinway, as<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre><tt>their glue joints were pretty much bullet proof!<G>  (unlike most other<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre><tt>manufactureres.)I'd follow <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Del</st1:place></st1:state>'s advice with the routing of the pinblock. I<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre><tt>do that and I also have an interlocking Plug system that works, too. New<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre><tt>board? Yer on yer own there.<G> </tt><o:p></o:p></pre> <div> <blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid blue 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 2.0pt; margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><pre><tt>here.<G</tt><o:p></o:p></pre></blockquote> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dale Erwin... RPT Mason & Hamlin/Steinway/U.S pianos www.Erwinspiano.com 209-577-8397 <tt> </tt> <tt>  </tt><o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> -----Original Message----- From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett@earthlink.net> To: pianotech <<st1:personname w:st="on">pianotech@ptg.org</st1:personname>> Sent: Thu, May 17, 2012 2:19 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] S&S K(52) Restoration<o:p></o:p> <div id="AOLMsgPart_0_50f21085-5a13-4b03-a717-3f74da64f843"><pre style="background:white"><tt>"Hello all, <o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>I am just starting the restoration process for a 1916 SS K. <o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Having never disassembled an upright before - what is the best way to remove<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>the side panels and the part of the top lid that appears glued to the case?<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Are these pieces glued as well as screwed to the case? It would seem to me<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>that removal of these panels is a must for refinishing and removal of the<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>plate/board etc. Also, the complete top lid assembly must come off if I am<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>to rout out the existing block. <o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>The piano will get refinished, new block new board. <o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Your thoughts and experience would be appreciated."<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt> <o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Gene,<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>If the keybed can be removed, then the need to remove the sides<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>isn'tnecessary.<G> My experience says don't even try with a Steinway, as<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>their glue joints were pretty much bullet proof!<G>  (unlike most other<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>manufactureres.)I'd follow <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Del</st1:place></st1:state>'s advice with the routing of the pinblock. I<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>do that and I also have an interlocking Plug system that works, too. New<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>board? Yer on yer own there.<G> <o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>As for the Action, I'd leave it as designed. Yes, it's a bear to work on,<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>however it is a very good one, that just needs to be approached from a<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>different mindset. If I were to replace the action, I'd do a Fandrich &<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Sons action before I'd consider the Plastic stuff. (The original Fandrich<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>action was first installed in a K-52, so all of the engineering is<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>there.<G> Just call Darrell....after noon tho!<G)That would increase the<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>action efficiency and make it a playing dream. As was stated, the plastic<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>stuff is not available yet. When it comes out, I suspect it wouldn't work<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>on a K-52 anyway.<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>That's my take on that.<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Captain of the Tool Police<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt>Squares R I<o:p></o:p></tt></pre><pre style="background:white"><tt><o:p> </o:p></tt></pre></div> </div> </div></o:smarttagtype></o:smarttagtype></o:smarttagtype> </body>