<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Hi Joe - comments interspersed below:<br><div><div><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><br>Terry the Farrell said: <br>"HOT DOG! 1867 Steinway square. Likely will not be pulling plate. Doing<br>some bridge repairs, restringing, dampers, full action rebuild. Case is<br>nearly flawless. Should be nice when done....."<br><br>Joe Garrett wrote:<br>I would strongly suggest you pull the plate and do pinblock route/replace!<br></div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>Well, I hadn't decided what I'm gonna do there. The pins are original with maybe 30 in-lbs. torgue (not tight, but good enough to tune it). I could just go one size up, or I was thinking of maybe plugging through the plate. Never done that before, but I was toying with trying it. I've plugged square blocks before when I've pulled the plate out - I like doing that - but I am not planning on yanking the plate on this one.</div><div><br></div><div>Any comments on this?</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>Cap the bridges..don't just "mess with it"!<br></div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>Well, being that this is sort-of an economy job, and I wasn't intending on pulling the plate, I was thinking more along the lines of a good epoxy repair.</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>If the dampers are reasonably functional..leave them alone. If not, then<br>duplicate EXACTLY what is there. DO NOT put modern Wedge type dampers on<br>it! (PLEASE???!!!) </div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>Sounds reasonable. Curious though - why not use wedges?</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>Do a scale evaluation and reset it for 440cps. Use<br>435cps as your criteria for the initial scale run...then change that<br>perameter. <br></div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>Yup. Already planning on that.</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>Hmmm? And where are you going to get the action parts for this "full action<br>rebuild"???Hmmmm?<G> </div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>Well, okay, I guess I was exaggerating a bit - how 'bout "fairly thorough"? Hammer butts and jacks are in pretty good shape - I think it will regulate quite well with the originals. New hammers though. Somebody replaced the hammers - looks like normal grand hammers and some grade-schooler went at them with a dull knife to shape them.......  :-(</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>Yes, it will be "nice when done"....properly. Try a<br>Victorian Temperament to really get the full enchilada.<G><br></div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>Like what?</div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>BTW, I wouldn't get up on replacing the board, since that thing was flat 2<br>days after it was installed. (scope out the ribbing//rim mounting, etc. and<br>you'll get what I mean. On those, it really doesn't matter. Ya gets what ya<br>gets.</div></blockquote><br></div><div>Oh, come on, I was just about to head out to my shop and start laminating some 4 M ribs for the new board! Let's see...... 4M ribs up by the treble, 15M ribs in the bass area - oh, wait a minute - the bass IS at the treble end!!!!!! What to do?????  Yeah, original board will stay. I've torn into a few of these before and very quickly realized that there never was any crown to those boards - at least not after they were strung in the factory. Board is in good shape - no cracks - besides, why would I want to tear the <i>soul</i> of the piano out?  ;-)</div><div><br></div><div>Terry Farrell</div></body></html>