<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:dt="uuid:C2F41010-65B3-11d1-A29F-00AA00C14882" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta name="Microsoft Theme 2.00" content="sumipntg 111"><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style></style></head><body bgcolor=white background="cid:image001.jpg@01CD3AAC.9E476F40" lang=EN-US link="#660099" vlink="#993366"><img src="cid:image001.jpg@01CD3AAC.9E476F40" v:src="cid:image001.jpg@01CD3AAC.9E476F40" v:shapes="_x0000_Mail" width=0 height=0 class=shape style='display:none;width:0;height:0'><div class=WordSection1>I had been looking to upgrade the tools that I use when setting distance bearing on the bridge cap.  You know, run the string over the overly thick cap with a bearing shim of some kind on the string rest, plane the bridge down until the string just grazes the top of the cap.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>Several years ago, I purchased a cheap Chinese set of pin gauges for about $40 from a local machinist tool shop.  These are graduated from .060 to .250 in increments of .000.  (You can also purchase these gauges from .250 to .500 in increments of .000.)  With these I choose the size that matches what I need for that portion of the bridge and run the string from the agraffe to the top of the pin gauge, planing down the bridge til I am there.<o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>Some time ago Jude Reveley turned me onto using an electronic caliper with the string.  You extend the caliper to an exaggerated height, run the string under it, set the bottom on the string rest.  Pull up on the string on the backside of the caliper, and push down and lower the caliper until the string just grazes the top of the bridge.  Take a reading and that is how much distance bearing you have.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>When setting bearing I use both.  The pin gauge of desired thickness is ultimately most accurate for when you are very close or on the mark.  The digital caliper’s arm slides a bit too easily, so you have to be very careful not to push the string past level.  Also, the caliper is a bit tall and awkward, and tends to want to flagpole a bit.  So I take two or three quick readings to be sure I am in the proper realm. But it is good in establishing your rough height before planing, and can be used to check distance bearing on a strung piano where room permits.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>So I had been searching for a better tool to perform the same function.  I ordered a SPI Electronic Depth Gauge, which will measure from 0 to 1.2” Part #50967876 from MSC Direct    <a href="http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT2?PMPXNO=000000026317426">http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT2?PMPXNO=000000026317426</a>  The price was $67.93 plus shipping.  Accuracy to .0005, which is way beyond anything we need.  The MSC folks are fabulous to deal with.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><img border=0 width=250 height=99 id=idProductImage src="cid:image003.jpg@01CD3AAD.F08650E0" alt="Description: http://www1.mscdirect.com/ProductImages/5096787-11.jpg"><o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>It has several features that are important:  zeroing button, ABS button, mm. to inch button.  Also it has a set screw which you see on the top in the middle.  This way you can set the depth to the desired value, lock it there, and use it as a go – no go gauge.  The tool is short enough that I can easily put my hand on the top and push down in a controlled fashion until I am where I want to be.  It takes a little pressure to push it down, which is ideal for control.<o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>No doubt there are other uses for this tool as a depth gauge.<o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>When I opened the box and looked at the literature, I realized that this tool is sold primarily as an electronic tire tread depth gauge.  So I quickly did a word search forthat on the net, and it turns out they are about as common as popcorn.  They can be had for as little as $18, but I have no idea where the CCMCCP (Cheap Chinese Made Crap Cutoff Point) lies.  Sears sells them, K Mart sells them, and you can probably pick one up at a local auto parts store.   <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>For what it is worth to other rebuilders.<o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>Will Truitt <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p></div></body></html>