<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;"><div>I had to replace a 4" chunk of rim molding on a Chickering Ampico years ago, and had success mixing dry aniline powder with one of those "Tootsie Roll" type ("Wood-Epox"?) doughs that you knead. It took a bit of experimentation and going over with touch-up markers to get the color/grain right, but you'd be hard pressed to find the repair today. T </div></td></tr></table> <div id="_origMsg_"> <div style="font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif:font-size:10pt"> <div style="font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt"> <hr size="1"> From: David Love <davidlovepianos@comcast.net>; To: <pianotech@ptg.org>; Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair Question Sent: Wed, Jun 6, 2012 3:17:32 PM <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" style="font:inherit;">Thanks.  In spite of Joe's comments on my woodworking ineptitude I do actually understand the process and techniques of fitting a piece of wood to the case and I appreciate your input.  The principle of using wood as the material of choice generally I agree with but in this case I'm not sure it's the best way to go.  Actually, it's a wood finish, not black.  Black would definitely be easier with no grain or color matching to worry about.  In this case, as I mentioned in a previous post, I think blending the wood finish to the existing finish will be easier as a complete faux finish (something I can manage) and a smoother palette will make it a bit easier. The Abatron stuff that I mentioned earlier does provide a nice fill but cures somewhat porous which concerned me.  I was not familiar with the product that Ruth Phillips sells but after seeing some photographs that she sent me it can molded into shape so that there is little sanding or shaping. And even if there were, you can carve or trim the material with a knife before it fully cures so that the amount of sanding is minimized.  It is a polyester product that gets blended with fine wood flour so that the surface is both smooth and durable even though this isn't a spot in the piano that is terribly vulnerable.  Again I appreciate everyone's input, especially Joe, who always reminds me that we need emotional investment in our work.  David Love www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of Encore Pianos Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 7:42 AM To: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech@ptg.org</a> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair Question I sent my reply off a tad too soon.  The advantage here is that you can take the slightly over size piece in and out.  I would simply hold it in place in hand and run my fingers over the two pieces to establish high or low, walk over to the belt sander, trim, come back, check again, and so on til I am done.  Then after you glue it, you will have to do some small amount of puttying and a bit of sanding.  The piece is black unless I am mistaken.  The primer and finish will be opaque, which renders the surface materials blending moot, as long as your work is done carefully.  Will Truitt -----Original Message----- From: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of David Love Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 10:03 AM To: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech@ptg.org</a> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair Question Actually, fitting a piece of wood would probably require the most work as I see it.  The section is not quite precisely cut at present and would have to be squared and leveled.  The wood would have to be cut to size very closely as access to do leveling after is somewhat limited would be the slowest and most difficult to sand level being made of wood.  The ends would still have to be filled and blended afterwards and then you'd have three different surface materials to match and blend.  Ruth Phillips just sent me a sequence of photos that utilize her wood rebuilder product which I'm tempted to use.  Thank you all for your input. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of Encore Pianos Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 5:39 AM To: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech@ptg.org</a> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair Question Thank you for making my point in the fewest words possible.  :-) Will -----Original Message----- From: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of Jon Page Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 6:48 AM To: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech@ptg.org</a> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair Question You could have fitted a piece of wood in there and have been done with it already. -- Regards, Jon Page </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> </div> </div>