<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:ns0="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> I would use CA for the reasons you outline. I feel better about it penetrating the surrounding wood and giving it strength. Plus there is no clamping time. But like Joe said, you must be very judicious so that it doesn’t wick into surrounding fabrics.  I find the bulb syringes to be great for applying just the right amount of glue<o:p></o:p> <img width=280 height=201 id="_x0000_i1026" src="cid:image001.jpg@01CD4579.457D95B0"><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dean<o:p></o:p> Dean W May                        (812) 235-5272 voice and text<o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com           (888) DEAN-MAY         <o:p></o:p> <ST1:PLACE u1:st="on"><ST1:PLACE u2:st="on"><U2:CITY u1:st="on"><ns0:City w:insAuthor="Dean May" w:insDate="2012-06-08T13:16:00Z" w:endInsAuthor="Dean May" w:endInsDate="2012-06-08T13:16:00Z"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Terre Haute</st1:City></st1:place></ns0:City></U2:CITY> <ns0:State w:insAuthor="Dean May" w:insDate="2012-06-08T13:16:00Z" w:endInsAuthor="Dean May" w:endInsDate="2012-06-08T13:16:00Z"><U2:STATE u1:st="on"><st1:State w:st="on">IN</U2:STATE></st1:State></ns0:State> <ns0:PostalCode w:insAuthor="Dean May" w:insDate="2012-06-08T13:16:00Z" w:endInsAuthor="Dean May" w:endInsDate="2012-06-08T13:16:00Z"><U2:POSTALCODE u1:st="on"><st1:PostalCode w:st="on">47802</st1:PostalCode>           Give us a LIKE on Facebook! <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/PianoRebuilderscom/137780082943148">Go to PianoRebuilders.com</a></U2:POSTALCODE></ns0:PostalCode><o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Boyce Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 10:42 AM To: <st1:PersonName w:st="on">pianotech@ptg.org</st1:PersonName> Subject: [pianotech] Hammer butt split at felt pad<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> A couple of weeks ago I wrote about the Problem Solving Customer who turned on his lathe a little aluminum collar for a hammer butt plate screw.  He called me back this week to say that another note was causing problems, not repeating properly. When I looked at the offending note today, I flicked the jack and could hear a charcteristic "click" that suggested the butt notch felt cushion was missing, or worn through to the wood, so that the jack tip was clicking against wood. When I peered with my flashlight, I could see that indeed it was missing. But not because the felt pad had fallen off. It had fellen off, yes, but because the wood had split. See photo. I found the felt pad in the bottom of the piano, attached to the bit of wood it was still adhering to.  I've not seen a split like that before, but I was in keeping with the fact that all the action parts in this piano seem very brittle. What would you stick this with?  I chose to use CA glue, and I found that the wood absolutely "drank" it in. I am hoping that having applied enough, it will have filled up and strengthened dried-out wood cells, and that the thing won't break again.  I could of course have replaced the hammer butt, but gluing was quick and easy. Do you think another adhesive choice would have been preferable? It seemed odd  to me that it should break in that way, as no great forces are involved at the hammer butt notch, at least not under the felt pad. Best regards, David.<o:p></o:p> </div> </body> </html>