<html> <head> <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"> </head> <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000"> Joe and Dean, thanks for those responses. Joe, we do have the Titebond range in the UK, yes, though you might not find it in every hardware store. I had Titebond Moulding & Trim Wood Glue with me (not Titebond III) and a tube of UHU PVA wood glue, and I did think about using one of those. (I bought the Titebond, funnily enough, on a visit to California. PVA in CA, haha!). But lately I've had some success with CA on small action parts without the need for clamping (or only very brief clamping), plus, I did like the idea that if the wood was "drinking" the CA, there would be some added strength. I did take care that there was no wicking of the CA into places it shouldn't go.  Dean, I do like the bulb syringe idea a lot, and I must get some.  Happily the bottle I was using has quite a fine nozzle.  But the bulb syringe would be better. Best wishes, David. <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.davidboyce.co.uk">www.davidboyce.co.uk</a> <blockquote type="cite"> I would use CA for the reasons you outline. I feel better about it penetrating the surrounding wood and giving it strength. Plus there is no clamping time. But like Joe said, you must be very judicious so that it doesn’t wick into surrounding fabrics.  I find the bulb syringes to be great for applying just the right amount of glue</blockquote> </body> </html>