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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>try Soy-gel. It works much better than citrus
strip.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Safe , no fumes. I've tried everything
green and this stuff is good.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Chuck Becker</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=nelsong@intune88.com href="mailto:nelsong@intune88.com">Gene
Nelson</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, July 14, 2012 11:46
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [pianotech] 96 years of
pledge</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Thanks for the recipe</DIV>
<DIV>Even with a new cartridge I can smell the methylene chloride</DIV>
<DIV>I just never seen good stripper migrate away and not even wet a
finish. </DIV>
<DIV>Gene<BR><BR>Sent from my iPhone</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Jul 14, 2012, at 7:01 AM, Euphonious Thumpe <<A
href="mailto:lclgcnp@yahoo.com">lclgcnp@yahoo.com</A>> wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
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<DIV>WARNING: <BR>I'm sure you know, but wear a good carbon-cartridge
mask, gloves, and goggles without vents ( or with vents taped over)
before doing the following. Many of us die young in this trade, from
chemical-relatable maladies!<BR>And still do it outside, in the shade,
with a breeze blowing... from a fan, if necessary. <BR><BR>Before I
strip anything, I THOROUGHLY scrub the surface with a green
Scotch-Brite sponge and one of those "Super-Clean" -like products. I
don't use actual "Super-Clean" anymore, though, because, from the
smell, I can tell Castrol recently added lye to the formula, and its
smell stays in things. I've used "Purple Power", but there are other
regionally available "Super-Clean" clones that are also cheaper.
(Available at auto parts stores, etc..) One I've heard good things
about is "Spray66", available from restaurant supply stores. It has
the advantage of no purple dye, which can darken bare wood a bit. (But
I've not found it in my area.)<BR>So I scrub everything with the pad
and "Purple Power" and those little brass detail brushes, and then
rinse it and dry it very quickly with paper towels and set it in the
shade. I'm not much worried about warping ( except on very thin parts
) because most piano parts have finish on both sides, and I'm drying
off so quickly . This pre-removes almost all, I'm sure, of the surface
contaminaton BEFORE the stripping process begins: thus preventing
excess silicone, and whatever else was smeared on the surface, from
"getting in the mix" and then the wood beneath. If it is a shellac
finish, these powerful soaps WILL remove some of it, giving you a
stripping "head start". But, as I said, unless you use a dye-free
"super-soap", it's best not to get down to bare wood. (And also to
deter warping and veneer damage.) <BR>Then, for stripping, I prefer
that orange "safer" stripping stuff. Yes, it's more expensive. But you
can slather it it on ( in the shade!) wrap the pieces with cheap
plastic dropcloths and just go away for a while. When you return, ALL
the finish should be dissolved and ready to remove. So I scrape it off
(I get massive pieces of cardboard-- mattress boxes and such from
behind furniture stores) and then scrub, with the grain, with a brass
bristle pot-brush from the grocery store. (The bristles are fine
enough that they dig the goop out of the pores, but also don't damage
the wod.) A few scrubbings like this, with simple denatured alcohol
scrub-rinses and paper-towel wipes and the wood should look "like
new". ( Note: I have a friend who pointed out that as most old pianos
have simple shellac finishes, you can skip the stripper altogether and
just brush on denatured alcohol, wrap in plastic and wait! I've not
tried this yet, but 'twould be great, as even the "safer" strippers
are toxic and take days to dry on the cardboard pieces before it is
legal to discard thyem.)<BR>I never sand veneer ( except to knock off
"hairs" intentionally raised during the finishing process) because it
is so thin. If there is a problem with uneven staining, I resolve it
with a wipe of diluted Clorox. ( Or commercially available aniline dye
remover --- which is chlorine bleach plus who-knows-what
added.)<BR><BR>Get a good book on refinishing. If you have a
trustworthy stripper in your area, take it to them. But be aware that
all their equipment will likely be silicone-contaminated, so you'll
still have to scrub ( with lacquer thinner) prior to finishing to
mitigate "fish-eye"
problems.<BR><BR>Thumpe<BR><BR><BR></DIV></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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<B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN> </B>Gene Nelson <<A
href="mailto:nelsong@intune88.com">nelsong@intune88.com</A>>;
<BR><B><SPAN>To:</SPAN> </B><A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> <<A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>>;
<BR><B><SPAN>Subject:</SPAN> </B>[pianotech] 96 years of pledge <BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN> </B>Sat, Jul 14, 2012 4:13:12 AM
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<TD vAlign=top><BR>Stripping mahogany with Greens and it just migrates
like a fish eye sort of.<BR>Two applications and scrub with soft brass
brush and tsp wash - it only took off about 30% of the finish and
there is still color in the pores. <BR>Any ideas?<BR>Gene<BR>>
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