<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;"><div>Wow! THAT was helpful! THANKS!!!<br />     But if you want to keep material costs down, I hope you DON&#39;T use the raw linseed oil (flax seed oil) I got at the grocery store health food section. ($9.95 for a half pint.) <br /><br />Thumpe</div></td></tr></table>            <div id="_origMsg_">
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                                <span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span>
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                            Douglas Gregg &lt;classicpianodoc@gmail.com&gt;;                            <br>
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                             &lt;pianotech@ptg.org&gt;;                                                                                                     <br>
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                                <span style="font-weight:bold:">Subject:</span>
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                            Re: [pianotech] Ny Times article on pianos                            <br>
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                            Wed, Aug 1, 2012 6:45:46 PM                            <br>
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                                        <td valign="top" style="font:inherit;">Thumpe.<BR><BR>You CAN wet sand with water on shellac. Cured shellac is surprisingly<BR>resistant to water unless you leave a flower pot on it over night.<BR>Just wet sand and wipe dry with a paper towel. Just as often, I use<BR>RAW linseed oil as a sanding lube because&nbsp; there is also another<BR>advantage to this. You can use regular sandpaper instead of wet-or-dry<BR>and save a lot in material cost. The linseed oil can be wiped off and<BR>French polished immediately. Any oil residue will not be a problem<BR>with French polish or any oil based or solvent based finish.<BR><BR>If I am working in someones living room I would use water and have a<BR>tarp down to catch any water drips. The French polish does not drip as<BR>you are only using a tiny bit on a pad. Naptha is not necessary on any<BR>finish for wet sanding unless you are also trying to degrease it. If<BR>you use
 raw linseed oil, you can forget the mask and gloves too. Raw<BR>is better than boiled linseed oil as it does not dry and get thick.<BR>Pure tung oil would also work for that matter, as would hydraulic<BR>fluid&nbsp; or baby oil (no joke). I prefer the smell of linseed or tung<BR>oil though.<BR><BR>Doug Gregg<BR>Classic Piano Doc<BR><BR>Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 08:08:26 -0700 (PDT)<BR>From: Euphonious Thumpe &lt;<a ymailto="mailto:lclgcnp@yahoo.com" href="javascript:return">lclgcnp@yahoo.com</a>&gt;<BR>To: <a ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" href="javascript:return">pianotech@ptg.org</a><BR>Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ny Times article on pianos<BR>Message-ID:<BR>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &lt;<a ymailto="mailto:1343833706.13346.YahooMailMobile@web114705.mail.gq1.yahoo.com" href="javascript:return">1343833706.13346.YahooMailMobile@web114705.mail.gq1.yahoo.com</a>&gt;<BR>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<BR><BR>Do you "wet sand" with water or
 something else (like naptha, which is<BR>what I use, with silicon-carbide paper,<BR>usually 320 grit --- and, yes, doing it outside and while wearing a<BR>carbon-filter respirator). I am having difficulty understanding how<BR>water could be used, without the old finish "clouding" .<BR><BR>Thumpe<BR>-------------- next part --------------<BR>An HTML attachment was scrubbed...<BR>URL: &lt;<a href="https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20120801/052b2969/attachment.htm" target=_blank >https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20120801/052b2969/attachment.htm</a>&gt;<BR></td>
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